Wednesday, March 20, 2013

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5 great city markets in Europe

Posted: 20 Mar 2013 02:59 AM PDT

For some it's the glitzy stores of New York and Paris.

For others it's the designer ateliers of Rome and Amsterdam.

But for many, shopping is best down on the street, up hidden alleys and in picturesque squares.

Europe has a huge choice of markets selling everything from bric-a-brac to food, from designer lookalikes to books and papers.

Here are our favorites.

1. Great Market Hall, Budapest, Hungary

Budapest Great Market HallThis three-story market houses an emporium of pickled foods: cauliflower, cabbage, beets, tomatoes and garlic.

The Great Market Hall in Budapest can be found on the Pest side of the great Liberty Bridge (which links both parts of the city).

It's a three-story construction that, at the end of the 19th century when it opened, was deemed one of the world's most modern market halls, with state of the art lighting and refrigeration.

Vast and airy, it's been described as a cathedral in iron, with a canal running through its center so that barges could deliver fresh produce to the traders. The canal is no longer there -- it's been replaced by wide elegant thoroughfares between the stalls.

The hall was badly damaged during World War II and was eventually closed when it became a danger to patrons.

In the mid-1990s it was extensively restored and now takes pride of place as one of the city's great attractions.

It's easy to navigate with mostly fresh produce on the ground floor, game, fish and a supermarket in the basement and the best of Hungarian arts and crafts alongside bars, cafes and food stalls on the first floor.

A guided tour can help you find your way through the various sausages, hams, salamis and locally revered langos -- a deep-fried doughy confection topped with sour cream and cheese.

If you buy only one thing, make it a packet of smoked paprika, which will add more than memories to your cooking at home.

How to get there: Although it's quicker from the city center by metro (M3 Blue Line) to Kalvin Ter, the best way is to take a tram, to see the city as you go. Budapest has more than 30 trams -- it's a great way to travel. Take trams 2, 47 or 49 to the Liberty Bridge.

2. Mercat de San Josep de la Boqueira, Barcelona

El Mercat de la Boqueria BarcelonaMercat de Sant Josep Boqueria embodies the hearty way of life in Barcelona.

Barcelona's great food market is so beautiful that, although it exists to provide fresh produce to locals, it's become an icon of the tourist trail. 

In the heart of Las Ramblas, the Mercat de San Josep de la Boqueira is recognized as one of the finest markets in the world, as well as one of the oldest -- there has been a market on this site since the 15th century.

Fresh fruits, fish and shellfish, hams and chorizos, freshly baked bread and pastries -- everything is here.

Traders call you to taste their goods -- around the market's circumference are stalls where you can enjoy breakfast, coffees or tapas throughout the day.

Full of locals buying and gossiping, and visitors viewing and tasting, the market is the soul of the city.

How to get there: From the city center and the Plaza de Catalunya walk straight down La Rambla, the city's most famous thoroughfare. La Boqueira is half way down on your right. Walk slowly and it should take 8-10 minutes.

3. Grand Bazaar, Istanbul

The Grand BazaarOne of the largest markets in the world, the Grand Bazaar is a fragrant maze of jewelry, carpets, ceramics and spices.

Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. It has more than 3,000 shops and 61 streets.

It's easy to get lost -- but who cares?

The fun is in wandering down lanes of leather wear and works, streets of tiny silver and gold shops, places for carpets and cottons, emporia of spices and herbs, silks and shoes.

The latter are piled high in every color, harking to times when the city's different cultures wore different colors -- Turks wore yellow, Greeks wore blue, Armenians wore red, Jews wore black.

The place resonates with history, but while half of it is as old as time, the rest is as modern as tomorrow with designer clothes and lookalike handbags, purses and furs. Haggle for everything -- it's expected.

There are tiny cafes serving thick aromatic Turkish coffee alongside apple tea and rose- and pistachio-flavored Turkish delight.

This isn't a place for a quick visit. Just as you think you've seen enough, you'll turn a corner and find more treasures (and trash).

How to get there: While taxi fares are cheap, the traffic is dense. Better to take the metro from Sultanahmet (city center) to the Carsikapi stop. From here, the market is in front of you.

4. Portobello Road, London

Portobello Road market in Notting HillPortobello Road Market sells a huge selection of trinkets and collectables in London's Notting Hill.

Portobello Road runs almost two miles through the heart of London's Notting Hill, lined with small shops and stalls offering furniture, silver, vegetables, porcelain, paintings and trinkets.

While most shops are open throughout the week, it swells with visitors, stallholders and shopkeepers on weekends.

The top end of the market, nearest Notting Hill tube station (which goes bilingual on weekends, with announcements in Italian), is the place to find antiques and secondhand artifacts as well as vintage designer handbags and furs.

The remaining vintage fashions can be found only on Fridays at the further end of the road near the Westway flyover. This is where designers send scouts to rummage through fashions from the last five decades.

In between there's a host of shops, stalls, supermarkets, cafes, pubs, fast food outlets, restaurants and musicians; the smaller streets offer specialty stores, such as the Travel bookshop and Books for Cooks.

How to get there: In west London, it's just 10 minutes by taxi from the west end. However, it's quicker (and cheaper) to take the tube. The Central Line goes to Notting Hill Gate. The market is a five-minute walk from the tube station.

Alternately, take the Hammersmith and City Line to Ladbroke Grove and you're just one street away from the thick of things.

There are a number of buses from Oxford Street, Hyde Park and Kensington (7, 23, 52, 28, 328). Ask the driver to let you know when to get off.

5. Les Puces, Paris

Marche Paul Bert at Les PucesA trove of French antiquities is found at Les Puce's Marche Paul Bert.

Les Puces (The Fleas) is what locals call Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, the largest antique market in the world at Porte de Clignancourt.

Covering seven hectares it's awash every Saturday, Sunday and part of Monday with a heaving mass of humanity. Go early (or at least before lunch) to see it at its best, and to avoid too much of a struggle to see the rest.

Stalls, shops and street traders sell everything from cheap clothes to art nouveau mirrors, from ancient linens to Empire sofas, old books, ecclesiastical kitsch and vintage kitchenware.

If you're in search of a rococo armoire you may well find it here, or even a hussar's chapeau. But you'll need to know your subject.

Amid the conglomeration of traders are a number of serious experts who will take time to take you through their stock. Most will pack and ship larger items.

Paris is often quiet on Sunday mornings, so if you want to avoid crowds, this is the time to be at the market.

How to get there: Take the metro to Porte de Clignancourt or Porte de Saint-Ouen, then follow the signs or the crowd.

Ultimate Dubai stopover guide

Posted: 19 Mar 2013 11:00 PM PDT

Dubai International Airport is among the world's busiest.

With more than 55 million passengers a year either arriving or passing through, there's a good chance your next international flight may see you touch down in the desert.

If you're looking to turn your transit into a 24-hour stopover, we bring you the definitive list of Dubai "must do's" for your next power visit.  

At the Top, Burj Khalifa

At the Top: A name so obvious it works. The best way to orient yourself before exploring the city is with a visit to At the Top, Burj Khalifa.

Yes, at 828 meters, it's the world's tallest building. Yes, the panorama is jaw dropping. And, yes, if you're afraid of heights a visit probably isn't a good idea.

That's the obvious stuff.

But did you know that if you visit during Ramadan and decide to break your fast on the observation deck, you'll have to wait three minutes longer than everyone on the ground? 

The world's largest free standing structure is so tall that Dubai's Grand Mufti has issued a decree that those above the 80th floor must adjust their prayer times in accordance with when they can see the sun set (not when it's scheduled on the clock).

Tip: Book online before you go and save 275 dirhams (US$74).

Adult price: Pre-booked cost is 125 dirhams per person, on arrival 400 dirhams. 
Children (4-12): Pre-booked is 95 dirhams, on arrival 400. 
Children under 3: Free 

1 Emaar Blvd., Downtown Dubai, Dubai, United Arab Emirates; +971 4 888 8888; www.burjkhalifa.ae

More on CNN: 10 crazy superlatives found only in Dubai

Dubai Fountain 

Hang around till the end of the show and you'll see people applauding a fountain. Behold the world's largest choreographed fountain, in the shadow of the world's tallest building.

It's also among the world's most expensive, built to the tune of a staggering 800 million dirhams (US$2.17 million).

The daily light and water spectacle lasts about five minutes and is accompanied by an eclectic soundtrack that varies depending on the show timing.

Water blasts reach 125 meters (410 feet) skyward while pulsating light throbs in time to the music.

On windy evenings, place yourself away from the "splash zone," unless you want to end up wet.

The Dubai Mall, Downtown Dubai; Closest metro station: Dubai Mall; free; +971 4 3627 500; www.thedubaimall.com

More on CNN: Dubai plans yet another 'world's biggest shopping mall'

Skydive Dubai

Skydiving. Perfect for those who feel life on the ground isn't terrifying enough. A monolithic formation of rock and sand, the Palm Jumeirah adds an additional 64 kilometers to Dubai's coastline.

Ostentatiously carving up the ocean in the shape of an enormous palm tree, it's one of the few man-made structures that can be seen from space.

The best place to take in views of the Palm Jumeirah is Skydive Dubai, host of three consecutive World Parachuting Championships.

A tandem skydive gives you sweeping views over the city and desert as you plummet almost 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) toward the beach next to the Palm Jumeirah.

You'll also be able to view The World, a cluster of man-made islands resembling a world map hidden off the coast of Dubai. Best catch them now before the ocean erodes this stalled development project.

Dubai Marina, Nakheel metro station; 1,750 dirhams/US$475 (including video and photos)
+971 5 0153 3222; Skydivedubai.ae

More on CNN: Dubai eyes world's tallest observation wheel

Gold Souq

Even if you're not in the market for precious metal, Dubai's Gold Souq is a great place to check out the locals in action. At any given moment there are around 10 tons of gold in this 50-year-old souq. It's a dazzling and chaotic spectacle; crowds push and swirl through the busy corridors searching among more than 300 traders for a bargain.

This is one of the cheapest places in the world to buy gold. Prices constantly fluctuate according to the market, with electronic signs throughout the souq updated to display the current rate.

Expect to pay market price for the gold and a manufacturing fee on top. While there's no disputing the market price, it's advised (and expected) that you haggle on any additional costs.

The Dubai Government stringently regulates the quality of the gold in the souq to ensure that everything is above board, conducting random inspections of shops to guarantee the quality.

Closest public transport: Gold Souq bus station, Dubai Old Souq marine station

Gallery: World's largest natural flower garden opens in Dubai

Spice Souq

Looks like you're going to need a bigger spice rack. The Spice Souq is a two-minute walk from the Gold Souq, and worth a visit if you're in the area.

Almost every spice imaginable is on display as you wander the narrow alleys.

Thick, white frankincense smoke mixes with dried lime and ginger, creating a scent you'll wish was edible. Piles of colorful dried chilies sit beside sacks of lavender petals.

An exotic buy is fine Iranian saffron, worth more per gram than gold.

Closest public transport: Gold Souq bus station, Dubai Old Souq marine station

Al Fanar Restaurant

In the mood for Emirati? It can only be Al Fanar. After conducting an exhaustive search, we're happy to confirm the veracity of Al Fanar's claim to be "the first and only Emirati restaurant" in Dubai.

While other restaurants pepper their menus with a few cursory Emirati dishes, none have a comprehensive selection dedicated to local cuisine to rival this authentic and ambient establishment.

Recreating the atmosphere of a traditional 1960s Emirati house, with walls punctuated by photos depicting pre-oil Dubai, diners can choose from private rooms, outdoor areas and traditional floor seating in private thatched huts.

Traditional dishes such as machboos (a mountain of rice and meat cooked with Arabic spices), saloona (chunky lamb and vegetable stew) and harees (a thick wheat-based porridge mixed with shredded meat) are staples and a recommended way to calibrate your palate for an Emirati immersion.

Average cost for a meal for two: 250 dirhams (US$70).

Dubai Festival City; +971 4 232 9966www.alfanarrestaurant.com

Super ship shots: Cruise giant in world first

Posted: 19 Mar 2013 08:59 PM PDT

Stunning images have emerged of the world's biggest ocean liner sailing through one of the world's most spectacular locations.

The Queen Mary 2, operated by Cunard, passed through New Zealand's Milford Sound on March 16, becoming the largest ship ever to visit the area, part of the World Heritage-listed Fiordland National Park.

Scroll through the gallery for more images and facts about the Queen Mary 2.

Also on CNN: 7 best Sydney Harbor cruises

The man who founded a religion based on 'The Big Lebowski'

Posted: 19 Mar 2013 09:36 AM PDT

DudeismDudeism: "An ancient philosophy that preaches non-preachiness."People who intuitively perceive 2,500-year-old Chinese and Greek concepts, while nodding to California's detached hippie philosophy and quoting droll lines from "The Big Lebowski," which turns 15 this year, are joining a revelatory religion that has illuminated its U.S. founder in northern Thailand.

Dubbed "Church of the Latter-Day Dude," the group also invites "mellow, unflashy chicks who hang around in their bathrobes and take baths with candles and whale sounds," says the religion's Dudely Lama, Oliver Benjamin. 

"Everyone feels oppressed by society's pressures," Benjamin says.

"Everyone wishes they had more freedom. Everyone wishes they could be more carefree, to worry less about money and status."

Benjamin's church is heavily influenced by the Tao of Lao Tzu (6th century B.C.), Epicurus (341-270 B.C.) and the "The Big Lebowski," a 1998 film written and directed by Joel and Ethan Coen.

The film stars Jeff Bridges as a surreal, hilarious, ironic, marijuana-smoking, satirical, 40-something character nicknamed "the Dude." 

Lebowski FestJeff Dowd (left), the real-life person upon whom the character of the Dude was based, appears alongside Oliver Benjamin at the 2008 Lebowski Fest in San Francisco. Asked by a woman in the movie what he likes to do for fun, the Dude replies: "Oh, you know, the usual. Bowl. Drive around. The occasional acid flashback."

The Chiang Mai-based Benjamin says he thinks everyone potentially identifies with aspects of the movie, even if they may not wholly approve of the Dude's lazy lifestyle.

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"The Dude is an extreme case, but he provides an ideal which can help you to bring a little more 'Dude' into your life, without giving up on the rat race entirely," he says.

"I grew up in the 1980s, which was a very ambitious and materialistic time -- the era of the Yuppies. Even as a youth, I found it frightening and false.

"The reason I embarked on a 10-year backpacking journey was so I could avoid being brainwashed by the machine of industry, and find the space and freedom to indulge my imagination."

Or, as the Dude exclaims in the 1998 film, set in 1990: "It's all a goddamn fake. Like Lenin said, look for the person who will benefit. And you will, uh, you know, you'll, uh, you know what I'm trying to say."

Eastern philosophy and Dudeism  

The Church of the Latter-Day Dude's website is ridiculous, absurd and lots of fun. 

But it also wrestles with questions and answers that have gripped humans throughout the ages.

"We contend that The Big Lebowski is actually a modern form of Taoism," Benjamin says. "Taoism is probably the most philosophical religion in the world.

"Though there are variants that are heavily superstitious, the original tradition has virtually no dogma or rules of conduct. It suggests that there is a natural way of living that people can return to, if they just learn to sense it intuitively.

"Though 'The Big Lebowski' is a story about an aging ex-hippie in Los Angeles who is trying to solve a kidnapping case, at its heart it's really a story about how to live your life, how to deal with conflict and how to maintain peace of mind in a world that's gone crazy. So there's really no distinction between the movie and Eastern philosophy -- the movie is infused with it," he says.

People who aren't cool, ultimately go crazy, Benjamin warns.

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"The Big Lebowski" (starring John Goodman as Walter Sobchak and Jeff Bridges as Jefffrey Lebowski) turns 15 this year, but "the Dude" remains ageless."Following Dudeism helps you to keep in mind what's important in life, what actually makes people happy instead of what makes them insane. Dudeism has a great deal in common with Epicureanism -- the original, uncompromised first draft -- which states that simple pleasures are best and that less is actually more."

Born in 1968, Benjamin grew up in Sherman Oaks, California, and got a psychology degree from UCLA before working in graphic design for a few years and then traveling while writing three "bizarre" unpublished novels

He's currently a freelance journalist and photographer, based mostly in Chiang Mai. In 2011, Benjamin co-authored "The Abide Guide: Living Like Lebowski" with the "Arch Dudeship" Dwayne Eutsey.

"There are now over 150,000 ordained Dudeist Priests worldwide," Benjamin says. "Most are in the U.S., but it's surprisingly popular in the UK as well."

'We're never going to compete with Christianity'

The Church of the Latter-Day Dude was actually born near Chiang Mai, in the hip resort town of Pai, where Benjamin says he became transfixed by visions.

"In 2005, I was up in Pai at a small cafe, watching 'The Big Lebowski' with a crowd of people from all over the world. I had seen the film once before and enjoyed it, but this time the experience was totally transformative.

"I felt as if I'd seen a story that put all the difficulties of modern life into a manageable perspective. And it was probably the most touchingly funny film I'd ever seen. 

"Oddly enough, I'd long wanted to start a religion. During my travels I'd become an earnest student of religion and philosophy."

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Wedging his church into a world crowded by older, cash-rich religions isn't impossible, but it may remain a niche belief system.

"Money is power. Dudeists don't tend to be the upper crust of society. So we're never going to compete with the really wealthy religions like Christianity.

"Ideally, we'd like to help people find ways to earn money with less work, but of course that's always a challenge. Fifty years ago, everyone thought that robots would be doing all the work for us and people would be living lives of leisure. That this has not come to pass is surely mankind's biggest tragedy," Benjamin laments.

"One problem also is that too many people just think the Dude is a burned out hedonistic stoner. Nothing could be further from the truth. He's an intellectual with strong moral character and a lively, creative mind.

"He's also a stoner, but that's not a bad thing. Too many people confuse Dudeism with anarchism or selfish laziness. Dudeism recognizes the need for organization and rules, and the laziness it touts is disciplined and determined."

Asked if he financially benefits from having the church, Benjamin replies: "I earn a modest income from the sales of some products on the site. We have plans to expand, and when we do, those increased profits will be used primarily to help spread the word of Dudeism via events and advertising, and maybe to provide jobs to Dudes who hate the ones they currently have."

The church is evolving, and hopes more members will know each other in the biblical sense.

"Perhaps it's not surprising that the Church is about 75 percent male. But we are trying to actively bring in more women. We think that women suffer even more than men do from the dictates of modern society," he says. 

Hardcore fans of the "Big Lebowski" might want to check out the multi-city Lebowski Fest, a celebration of all things related to the 1998 Coen brothers cult comedy. It's on this weekend in Los Angeles and in New York from April 19-20. 

Originally published in August 2011, updated March 2013.