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| Posted: 30 Apr 2013 05:05 AM PDT On Tuesday, the Dutch hold the biggest street party in Europe -- Koninginnedag (Queen's Day). Almost anything goes. The streets are crowded with people and a huge variety of stalls. For Queen's Day only, anyone can legally have a street stall (if they can find the space) to sell anything, new or secondhand. In some respects, it's a like a giant flea market, albeit with drink, food, jollity, music, fireworks and lots of orange clothing. With the abdication of Queen Beatrix and the inauguration of King Willem-Alexander, 2013 is even more special. It will be the last Koninginnedag for some time. Next year and beyond the day will be known as Koningsdag (King's Day). If you're a newbie to the Netherlands, below are a few Dutch 101 lessons. For additional practical traveling info, you can check out these other CNN Travel pieces:
1. Cycle everywhere
The skill level of the Dutch cyclist is high. Many can cycle while carrying the weekly groceries, children or a ladder, handling tricky tram tracks and swerving around unexpected obstacles at speed. It's even more impressive when combined with a few drinks. Most bikes look like black big-wheeled old-fashioned boneshakers with pedal brakes. Bike are practical rather than showy and thus less attractive to bike thieves. Until the recent advent of the cycle police, it was a source of national pride to cycle without lights. No secret that bikes are the ideal way for any visitor to enjoy their time in the Netherlands. More information for hiring bikes: Ultimate guide to bikes and cycling in the Netherlands 2. Obsess over the WCThough Englishman Thomas Crapper popularized the toilet, many modern toilet innovations are Dutch. The famed old school Dutch toilet with an "inspection shelf" is less prevalent these days, but still available. For women, the joys of a standing female urinal can be found in various popular locations. It's claimed to reduce queues. Masculine waywardness is reportedly a thing of the past, ever since the Dutch stenciled a large horsefly onto their urinals. It's a model that has been exported worldwide and can be seen extensively in the toilets at Schipol Airport. Expat guide to the Dutch toilet experience: www.expatica.com 3. Eat more pastries
The Dutch don't just create any old pastries, though. They create works of art pimped within a millimeter of perfection. There's the appeltaart, the moorkop and the bosse bol, best as dessert. Other Dutch culinary treats include frit and mayo, stroopwafels (ideal with coffee and sold fresh at most outdoor markets) or saucijzenbroodje (Dutch sausage rolls with high meat content). Click here for a list of top bakeries in Amsterdam: www.awesomeamsterdam.com 4. Go sailingThe Netherlands is technically below sea level and stays dry thanks to polders and dykes. The Dutch are nearly as obsessive about getting out on the water as they are about cycling -- plus they appear to navigate just as recklessly. Many people own boats and it's not unusual to live on a houseboat or see parties on a huge variety of vessels. More information: www.iamsterdam.com 5. Pay only for what you consume"Let's go Dutch" is probably the most misunderstood phrase associated with the Netherlands. To really go Dutch, you should only pay for what you eat or drink rather than split the bill equally. In the Netherlands, service is included your bill. But it's still polite to tip. Tipping isn't really a big thing -- most locals often only leave a token amount if they had a coffee and between €5-10 ($6.50-13) with a meal. Tourists tipping at 10% are appreciated. 6. Get that 'gezellig' feeling
But what exactly is it? It's a word or concept with no direct translation but many meanings. You'll often hear "gezellig" referenced wherever Dutch people gather. The word roughly translates to cozy, quaint, familiar or friendly. Every self-respecting Netherlander knows when they're feeling gezillig (or, heaven forbid, if they're not). Tourists can feel it too -- just kick back, relax and enjoy yourself and you're most likely feeling gezellig. 7. Drink coffee with a special milkLong before coffee became a fashion accessory, it was a national pastime in the Netherlands. The Dutch have a special "coffee milk" -- an acquired taste and definitely not advisable for use in tea or on breakfast cereal. Dutch-style coffee comes with a biscuit on the side. Claims of the superiority of Dutch lovers and Dutch cheese also stretch to their coffee -- Dutch coffee is, according to any local, the best in the world. The national brand, Douwe Egberts, is found throughout the Netherlands (though the brand is now owned by a German company). Equally, if you have the misfortune to try what most Dutch consider an acceptable cup of tea, you'll soon understand why coffee is so popular. The Dutch also like to drink "koffie verkeerd," whic literally means "coffee gone wrong." It's a poor man's café latte with 70% coffee with 30% steamed milk stirred together thoroughly. More info on the best coffee shops in Amsterdam: www.dearcoffeeiloveyou.com 8. Go to a 'brown café'Brown cafes are casual, often dark (brown) environments that support the regional brewed beer and, in many cases, microbrewers. Typically brown cafes serve: Amstel in the north Netherlands, Grolsch in the middle, Brand in the south. In summer, lighter, fruiter witbier (white beer) is the rage -- served sometimes with a slice of orange or lemon that can be muddled to add to the flavor. Most pubs also serve at least one Belgian beer on tap due to the enormous popularity of these heavier and stronger beers. Every Dutch person has their favorite local brown café. And in spite of the 2008 no smoking laws, many brown cafés still allow their patrons to smoke indoors. More info on brown cafes: www.dutchamsterdam.nl/147-amsterdams-brown-cafes      |
| Spanish dominate world's best restaurants list Posted: 30 Apr 2013 03:32 AM PDT
These things are bound to happen -- the 11th World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards show went on. What started out as a feature in the UK-based Restaurant magazine is now the most revered and sought after accolade in the business. As Richard Vines, UK and Ireland chair of the awards and chief food critic at Bloomberg, says, "It's the restaurant industry's equivalent of the Oscars." Its influence can be summed up by Noma chef Rene Redzepi's tweet before the awards last year: "1,204 people on the waiting list for this evening. Same day in 2008 -- 14 guests in all day." And let's hope Redzepi made the most of his past three years on top -- his Noma restaurant has been knocked down a peg to second spot by Spain's El Celler de Can Roca, last year's second-placed restaurant. "We don't know if we are the best restaurant but you can be sure that we will continue to work with authenticity, generosity, hospitality and of course creativity," said Joan Roca, chef at El Celler de Can Roca, during his acceptance speech. Spain took two other spots in the top 10, Mugaritz (4th) and Arzak (8th) completing the hat trick. Perhaps it's appropriate that Spain was so roundly honored this year. Modern Spanish cuisine is arguably the hottest thing at the world's dinner tables these days. See our recent article: Spanish cuisine: Best food in the world right now? That Latino influence will be explored further, when Restaurant magazine launches its South America's 50 Best Restaurants Awards, following the launch of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants in February this year. Here are this year's winners. The top 10
Gaining top spot for the first time is El Celler de Can Roca. The restaurant not only keeps but propels Catalan cuisine on the World's Best Restaurants list. The three brothers who own this ultra-modern restaurant in the industrial town of Girona are jokers as well as clever cooks. They start dinners off with caramelized olives, which come to the table on bonsai trees; from there diners get classic Catalan ingredients that made the region famous in the days when Ferran Adria of elBulli was king.
Knocked off the top spot after a three-year reign, the minimalist Noma offers Nordic food -- anything from Greenland musk ox to tiny shrimp from the Faroe Islands. Herbs, grasses and berries foraged by the chefs also feature. And the chefs, who come here from all over the world to study with Rene Redzepi, bring their food direct to the table themselves. The restaurant is in a charming old warehouse reached by ferry from Copenhagen harbor.
Now up in the number three spot is Osteria Francescana. Massimo Bottura has put Modena firmly on the dining map without pretension or fuss, despite winning a third Michelin star. Dinner might start with something as simple as a perfect plate of coppa ham before Massimo starts shaking it up a bit. He has the advantage of being in the heart of Emilia-Romagna. Italy's foodiest region, it's home to both the spaghetti Bolognese and parmesan cheese eaten by Italo-holics the world over.
Slipping down one place is Mugaritz. Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz whips up food that looks nothing like fare that will knock your socks off. You might get a single piece of white hake on a white plate, or a potato resembling a stone all on its own in a bowl.
Eleven Madison is led by Swiss chef Daniel Humm. This New York restaurant has sky-rocketed to stardom. Last year it leaped 14 places up the Best 50 list to spot 10, and went from a single Michelin star to three. This year, it climbed further to number 5. Diners are expected to choose one core ingredient for each of their four courses for what's described by Restaurant magazine as "a dynamic but relaxed dining experience that's deeply rooted in New York."
Despite a rumor it might be number one, D.O.M. came in at number six, down from fourth spot last year. Chef-patron Alex Atala has taken the humblest native fare -- palm hearts and cassava -- and put them on plates along with rarer produce of the Amazonian rainforest. Expect to hear a lot more about cambuca fruit, manioc root and tucupi juice, with other Brazilians coming up the list behind him. In the heart of Sao Paolo, the waiting list is still pretty long for this 50-seat restaurant.
A perhaps somewhat unexpected climb was Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. Heston Blumental made his name with snail porridge and bacon and egg ice cream. But at Dinner -- in London's Mandarin Oriental hotel -- Blumenthal has gone for historic British recipes dating back as far as the 14th century. Thanks to Dinner, a new word is bound to enter the Oxford Dictionary -- the meat-fruit is Heston's most famous confection, actually a chicken liver parfait cunningly disguised as a mandarin orange.
Rooted at number 8 is Arzak. The restaurant serves classic Basque cuisine with random surprises like computer screens as dinner plates. Evolution has kept this fourth-generation restaurant founded in the 19th century, at the forefront of the world's culinary achievements -- only what you'd expect from the first family of San Sebastian. Father and daughter Juan-Mari and Elena Arzak collaborated with Ferran Adria on molecular experiments back in the day, and still have their own food lab above the restaurant. But in spite of dishes like monkfish and gooseberries being served on computer screens, classic Basque cuisine is at the heart of the place, and it's a very cozy, old-fashioned room where everyone feels like family within five minutes of arriving.
Breaking into the top 10 for the first time this year is Steirereck. Housed in an art deco building, the restaurant has views across the river Wien. Its dishes are Styrian inspired -- chef Heinz Reitbauer's roots. The restaurant is all about farm-to-table dining. The chef has his own farm and works with a cooperative of farmers who supply the restaurant. That means the menu changes daily according to what the freshest product is.
Another first timer in the top 10 is Vendôme in Germany, which climbed up from number 23 last year. The name is borrowed from a town in France but the food is firmly German. The restaurant has a serious menu though -- the longest is 25 courses! The ultimate dish is probably the venison with pine-needle jelly and celery cream. Best of the restOne to watch: The Test Kitchen, South Africa Head chef Luke Dale-Roberts is British born and trained in Switzerland and England before heading to Asia to broaden his horizons. His collaborative kitchen is all about mixing old and new techniques, serving guests in an ultra-industrial space. Lifetime achievement award: Alain Ducasse With over 30 years in the restaurant industry, Alain Ducasse boasts an impressive empire. Of his 24 restaurants, spread over three continents, three have attained and maintained three-star Michelin status. Numerous chefs who have trained with him have also gone on to open their own successful Michelin-starred restaurants. Best female chef: Nadia Santini Mantuan restaurant Dal Pescatore's Nadia Santini was the first female chef in Italy to earn three Michelin stars for what started out as a simple osteria. Dal Pescatore is also the only restaurant that Santini has ever worked at. New entriesAttica, Melbourne at 21: Highest new entry, a restaurant defined by the daily forage of its chef Ben Shewry. Restaurant Andre, Singapore at 38: French food by Taiwanese born chef Andre Chiang, in Singapore's Chinatown. 8½ Otto E Mezzo Bombana, Hong Kong at 39: Named after a Federico Fellini film. Piazza Duomo, Italy at 41: A mix of edgy creations with regional classics. Mr & Mrs Bund, China at 43: The first restaurant from mainland China on the list. Mani, Brazil at 46: Husband and wife chef team mixing Spanish with Brazilian. Septime, France at 49: A Parisian bistro without the haute. Central, Lima at 50: Rooted in Peruvian cuisine but with an international influence. World's best restaurants 11-5011. Per Se, New York, USA 12. Frantzén/Lindeberg, Stockholm, Sweden 13. The Ledbury, London, UK 14. Astrid y Gastón, Lima, Peru 15. Alinea, Chicago, USA 16. L'Arpège, Paris, France 17. Pujol, Mexico City, Mexico 18. Le Chateaubriand, Paris, France 19. Le Bernardin, New York, USA 20. Narisawa, Tokyo, Japan 21. Attica, Melbourne, Australia 22. Nihonryori RyuGin, Tokyo, Japan 23. L'Astrance, Paris, France 24. L'Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon, Paris, France 25. Hof Van Cleve, Kruishoutem, Belgium 26. Quique Dacosta, Dénia, Spain 27. Le Calandre, Rubano, Italy 28. Mirazur Menton, France 29. Daniel, New York, USA 30. Aqua Wolfsburg, Germany 31. Biko, Mexico City, Mexico 32. Nahm, Bangkok, Thailand 33. The Fat Duck, Bray, UK 34. Fäviken, Järpen, Sweden 35. Oud Sluis, Sluis, Netherlands 36. Amber, Hong Kong 37. Vila Joya, Albufeira, Portugal 38. Restaurant Andre, Singapore 39. 8 1/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana, Hong Kong 40. Combal.Zero, Rivoli, Italy 41. Piazza Duomo, Alba, Italy 42. Schloss Schauenstein, Fürstenau, Switzerland 43. Mr & Mrs Bund, Shanghai, China 44. Asador Etxebarri, Atxondo, Spain 45. Geranium, Copenhagen, Denmark 46. Mani, São Paulo, Brazil 47. The French Laundry, Yountville, USA 48. Quay, Sydney, Australia 49. Septime, Paris, France 50. Central, Lima, Peru    |
| Testosterone not allowed: London's first private women’s club Posted: 29 Apr 2013 11:00 PM PDT I've just entered Grace Belgravia, London's first private members club for women only. It's a discreet black doorway in London's swish Belgravia and already I'm feeling slightly self-conscious. This was probably not the intention of club founder Kate Percival; one of Grace's aims is to "take the stress out of daily life," and the club is dedicated to "empowering and nurturing women." But I'm not the target clientele. For starters, I can't afford the $8,330 annual membership fee (plus a $3,000 one-off joining fee), nor the lifestyle or wardrobe that one might want to show off in this kind of establishment.
The club opened late last year to great fanfare -- partly, I imagine, to do with the fees, glamour-tinged services (they'll help you arrange private appointments with top fashion designers for bespoke fittings) and chic facilities. But mostly owing to the testosterone-free environs.
Women-only clubs are on the rise. "There's been a paradigm shift, which means that, increasingly, women are seeking out other women's company," says Percival. "It's not that they don't love their husbands and partners, but they often have deeper conversation with women than men." Other female-oriented venues include The Sorority, a "women's business club," also in London, and STK, a chain of U.S. steak restaurants with a "flirty, feminine take." "Women spend their lives multi-tasking, always putting family and work before their own health," adds Percival. "They are bad at actually making time to take stock, usually feeling guilty about having 'me' time and giving themselves breathing space. "Grace was created to put the best of the best under one roof. I wanted to create a place where women could come and feel cared for and be intellectually stimulated."
Members come to socialize and attend events. Sir Richard Branson's mother, Eve, gave a talk recently, as did Naomi Wolf. But most are drawn by the spa, gym, restaurant, lounge, food delivery service (for $60 a day you can have vegan delights on tap), the services of a celebrity hair stylist and a medical center headed by apothecary to the Queen, Dr. Tim Evans.
It's a world away from the fusty, cigar-fumed, whisky-clinking, darkened corridors that dominate the perceptions of men's clubs. In fact, it feels like the pages of Vogue come to life, all chic, cool grays and neutrals (except for the gym, which is nightclub dark), occasionally injected with warmth and friendliness. I'm greeted by an "Angel" -- every client has her own, a cross between a personal assistant and a shoulder to cry on. She's sweet, American, elegant in a white blouse and black skirt, looks fresh out of college, but later, I learn, has worked for a hedge fund and studied for a Masters in Art Business at Sotheby's Institute of Art. Even the help is a cut above. She sits me down and hovers over me while I sign a confidentiality agreement, so I can't name-drop about members. Then I'm whisked around for a tour of the premises. We walk through an immaculate atrium, lined with expensive art. The artist on display when I visit is Ewa Batchelier and her paintings can be bought for around $5,300 each.
There's an atelier, posh-speak for a designer boutique, a gym that's populated by model-gorgeous male trainers (there's an incentive to join), a dance and yoga studio and the spa. The therapists use high-end and organic beauty brands, like ila, the holy grail of holistic treatment junkies. On the "Massage by Our Masters" list, there's something called Integrative therapy and it costs $1,500 for 240 minutes. I'm pointed in the direction of an anti-ageing Henri Chenot facial ($219 for an hour) and the therapist is a sweetie, no airs or graces. I emerge an hour later, floating. The Medical Centre, the one bit of the club open to non-members, is impressive. Among the roster of experts on call are a cardiologist, dermatologist, nutritionist, psychotherapist, plastic surgeon, acupuncturist and women's health therapist.
So who are the dames who grace Grace? Who gets the golden pass? "The club is for impressive women who recognize that they're fallible and need support; it's not for spoilt women who are looking for a place to have lunch," says Percival. "I want these women to leave their egos at the door and be nurtured by the space and facilities that Grace offers." Females who work in law, banking, art, media, medicine, telecommunications and fashion are among the club's members. No footballers' wives here. The majority are Brits, followed by American and Italians.
Men aren't completely verboten: on Tuesdays and Thursdays, male guests are allowed in for drinks or dinner, and on Sundays for brunch, though they're strictly barred from using the spa and fitness facilities. So, hard luck fellas, you'll have to head elsewhere for your modern metrosexual needs. Grace Belgravia, 11C W. Halkin St., London; +44 (0) 207 235 8900    |
| Insider Guide: What to do in Tokyo Posted: 29 Apr 2013 09:43 AM PDT Tokyo is a city that can roar one moment and whisper at the next, a place where almost anything seems possible. And sometimes is. After all, 13 million people share this 2,188-square-kilometer piece of the planet, which is home to some of the world's top restaurants, stores and cafés. It's also a one-stop center for the best of Japan -- culture, quality products and impeccable service. For the visitor wondering what to do in Tokyo, the choices are limitless. The city has endured the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, bombings of World War II, the implosion of its housing bubble in the 1990s and heavy effects of the March 2011 tsunami/earthquake that hit Japan. Each time, its people have dusted themselves off and rebuilt. Many tourists already feel an affinity with Tokyo thanks to Hollywood -- 1978's "Bad News Bears Go To Japan," for example (what film were you thinking of?). But you can't say you really know what to do in Tokyo until you spend your mornings walking through its temples, shrines and parks; your afternoons exploring its neighborhoods and back streets and your nights feasting in its restaurants, drinking in its bars and -- why not? -- hitting its famed karaoke joints. Print and go -- Our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of Tokyo HotelsLuxury
A Peninsula hotel is like that frustrating friend who, no matter how hard you look, has no flaws. Not one. You could say the luxury chain favors quality over quantity, given that it has fewer properties in the world than you have fingers. (Paris in 2013 will make 10.) The Peninsula Tokyo is located in the city's ritzy Ginza district, a stroll away from designer boutiques and Michelin-starred restaurants. The best rooms offer views of the neighboring Imperial Palace. 1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku; +81 (0) 3 6270 2888; from ¥46,000 per night; www.peninsula.com More on CNNGo: Peninsula bans shark fin from menus
"Lost in Translation," Bill Murray, ScarJo. There, we've said it. Nearly 20 years since it opened (and eight years after a major renovation), the Park Hyatt Tokyo still attracts the rich and famous who know what to do in Tokyo. The hotel occupies a pricey piece of sky, beginning on the 41st floor of a high-rise in the city's Shinjuku neighborhood. Rooms are well decorated and comfortable with eye-catching views of Tokyo's sprawl, while the 20-meter pool is worth a few laps. Some guests might consider the Shinjuku location a bit out of the way. 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; +81 (0) 3 5322 1234; from ¥60,000 per night; www.parkhyatt.com
This five-star stunner takes up the top nine floors of the 53-story Midtown Tower (along with the first three levels), with views rivaling those of the Park Hyatt. The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo has a range of accommodation options, including a Japanese-style room for guests who want to walk on tatami mats and bed down on futons while considering what to do in Tokyo. The Japanese restaurant features a 200-year-old teahouse for private dining. The spa and pool are essentially on par with the RC's competitors. The location is close to Tokyo's lively Roppongi neighborhood. 9-7-1, Akasaka, Minato-ku; +81 (0) 3 3423 8000; from ¥51,000 per night; www.ritzcarlton.com More on CNNGo: The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo's "Diamonds Are Forever" martini Mid-rangeThe Westin The folks who build Westin hotels snagged themselves a location to brag about when they set up shop in Tokyo's residential Ebisu neighborhood. Sure, these are not luxury rooms, but they're nothing to complain about and just a few strides from Yebisu Garden Place, with its shops, restaurants and beer museum (Sapporo Breweries' headquarters is there, too). Nearby Ebisu Station is on the Yamanote Line, the train loop that circles the city. Also within striking distance are the neighborhoods of Hiroo, Nakameguro and Daikanyama. 1-4-1 Mita, Meguro-ku; +81 (0) 3 5423 7000; from ¥31,000 per night; www.starwoodhotels.com More on CNNGo: Best beer gardens in Tokyo
This hotel is for travelers who crave designer digs. Its 18 rooms are divided into four categories: Japanese modern, tatami, weekly residence and "DIY" -- the latter being custom creations of Japanese designers. One is called "Someone's atelier" and has framed art leaning against the walls. Another is known as "Pajamas" and has a bed frame covered with stuffed animals. Claska also houses a café, dog grooming salon, gallery, shop, event space and rooftop terrace. Some might feel the hotel is away from the action. It's a short bus ride or a 20-minute walk from Meguro Station. 1-3-18 Chuo-cho, Meguro-ku; +81 (0) 3 3719 8121; from ¥15,000 per night; www.claska.com Budget
This cherry tree-fringed hotel is a winner because of its quiet and strategic location. It's a two-minute walk from the train and subway lines at Meguro station, including the handy Yamanote route that circles the city. And it's not much farther from the dynamic neighborhoods of Ebisu, Nakameguro and Shirokanedai. The 205 rooms at Princess Garden range from single to superior double, from functional to spacious. Some of them have views of Mount Fuji. 2-23-7 Kamiosaki, Shinagawa-ku; +81 (0) 3 3779 1010; singles starting at ¥8,000 per night, doubles at ¥14,000; www.princess-garden.co.jp More on CNNGo: Best boutique hotels in Tokyo Dining
The latest Michelin guide has awarded its highest ranking -- three stars -- to 17 restaurants in the Tokyo area. Compare that to Paris, where just 10 eateries hold the coveted trois étoiles handed out by the French tire company, and it's pretty clear fine dining should be at the top of any "what to do in Tokyo" list. One of the latest establishments to win top honors is Ryugin, run by chef Seiji Yamamoto. Called "brilliant" and a "molecular gastronomist" by food critics, Yamamoto opened his restaurant in 2003 with a clear goal -- "to pursue the possibility of Japanese cuisine." Here's a guy so dedicated to understanding food he sent an eel for a CT scan so he could better understand how to carve up the creature for his signature soup. Ryugin offers a modern spin on the traditional, multi-course kaiseki meal, making creations out of products ranging from Wagyu beef to monkfish liver pâté to shirako (a.k.a milt or fish sperm). Diners who would normally say "delicious" are forced here to search for more emphatic terms. 1/F Side Roppongi Building, 7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato-ku; +81 (0) 3 3423 8006; moderate to expensive; www.nihonryori-ryugin.com More on CNNGo: Tokyo regains Michelin title as world food champ
Don't bother trying to count the sushi restaurants in Tokyo (we didn't) -- there are just too many. From high-end to back alley, there are enough places peddling this famous raw-fish-based creation to keep this city's customers satisfied, not to mention the millions of annual visitors. One way to grab some of the best sushi in Tokyo and to take in a venerable tourist site at the same time is to dine at Sushi Dai, located at the Tsukiji fish market. It doesn't get any fresher. 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku; +81 (0) 3 3547 6797; moderate; www.tsukiji-sushidai.com More on CNNGo: The best sushi restaurants in Tokyo Seirinkan The people who run Seirinkan make some of the best pizza in Tokyo, hands down. You'll see the oven burning away as you enter this narrow building in Nakameguro. It would be wise to watch your head as you climb the winding wood and metal staircase to the second and third floors, but it's also worth taking in the décor, which includes helmets and camouflage netting. It feels like you're in an army bunker, albeit one with dark red curtains. The menu has a variety of pasta and appetizer options, but the pizza is the real reason to go. Sure, it's limited to just two selections -- the cheese-cherry tomato margherita and the tomato sauce-seasoning-sliced-garlic marinara. But trust us: once you try them, with their lightly salted crusts, you won't want for anything else. 2-6-4 Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku; +81 (0) 3 3714 5160; moderate; no website
Go for the eggs benedict; stay for the choco-banana French toast or pancakes. Cozy Irving Place -- with its plush seats and sofas, antique chairs and Persian-style rugs -- sits atop a two-level store that sells urban chic clothing and pricey body care products, along with plants and flowers. The menu is varied: sweet offerings (see above), omelets, sandwiches (Cuban, falafel), salads (including a tasty Cobb) and pastas. When the weather's nice, we recommend grabbing a table on the patio. Certain meals come with a drink and salad bar option. If not, you can add them by paying ¥250 extra. 6-4-4 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; +81 (0) 3 5449 7720; moderate; www.biotop.jp Sasano Izakaya are to Japan what tapas bars are to Spain. They sell Japanese food of different forms and flavors -- grilled meat, seafood, veggies, the works -- along with sweaty mugs of draft beer and whisky soda. It's all at your command with the press of a button. The atmosphere can be smoky and loud, full of families or drunken salarymen depending on where you end up. Ask anyone in Tokyo and they'll point you to their favorite. One of ours is Sasano, an upscale izakaya hidden above a ramen shop in Roppongi, a stone's throw from the Tokyo Midtown development. The owner focuses on creating dishes that go well with the many different varieties of sake he has in stock. Popular choices include salted fish and squid, fresh sashimi (straight out of the restaurant's fish tank), sea urchin and marinated salmon roe sushi and the negi-ton, or grilled chicken with chopped fresh green onions and vinegar sauce. Menus are in Japanese only, but the owner speaks some English. 2F, 9-6-23 Akasaka, Minato-ku; +81 (0) 3 3475 6055; moderate to expensive; no website More on CNNGo: Best izakaya in Tokyo
Diners who yearn for Italian can find a few solid options in Tokyo. And Aponte, just around the corner from Yebisu Garden Place, is about as solid as they get. There's one table and one private room, so most customers sit elbow-to-elbow at a counter surrounding the kitchen. From here, they eat, drink and watch staff chop garlic, boil pasta and create some generally savory dishes, including the excellent lemon-cream-sauce spaghetti. 1-12-26 Mita, Meguro-ku; +81 (0) 3 5773 0580; moderate; www.aponte-ebisu.com More on CNNGo: Tokyo 2012 ultimate dining guide Good Honest Grub The folks at Good Honest Grub say they make the best brunch in Tokyo. We don't doubt that for a second. You can get regular eggs Benedict, but consider holding the ham and trying crab or young sardines or hijiki (edible seaweed) or spiced tofu or a host of other toppings. The sweet tooth crowd can gobble down French toast, meringue pancakes or banana pancakes with Canadian maple syrup. If you're really hungry, try the Lumber Jack Breakfast (sausage, bacon, ham, roasted tomato, baked beans, hash browns and toast -- ¥2,000). 2-20-8 Shibuya-ku, Higashi; +81 (0) 3 3797 9877; moderate; www.goodhonestgrub.com More on CNNGo: Best Sunday brunches in Tokyo Nightlife
Anyone who thinks youth is wasted on the young might find contradictory evidence if they make the trek out to ageHa, a large venue in east Tokyo with multiple dance floors, rooms and a pool. Club-goers wondering what to do in Tokyo get to feel the beats of some of the world's best DJs, who pump out music through banks of speakers ageHa claims you can "feel with your whole body." There's enough lighting to illuminate a Pink Floyd reunion tour and the club hosts a gay dance event every two months called Shangri-La at ageHa. Getting there is a hike, but there are shuttle buses to and from Shibuya Station. 2-2-10, Shinkiba, Koto-ku; + 81 (0) 3 5534 1515; cover charge can be upward of ¥3,500, depending on the event; www.ageha.com More on CNNGo: Best Tokyo gay and lesbian bars Muse This cavernous basement establishment is popular with expats, young and not-so young, although not everyone will admit they go. The crowd packs the dance floor to tunes that New York grew tired of a couple of years ago. Muse sometimes feels like one of those end-of-night pick-up spots, but it can be a fun place to party. Call it a guilty pleasure. B/1F, 4-1-1 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; +81 (0) 3 5467 1188; weekend cover ¥3,000 for men includes two drinks, women free; www.muse-web.com More on CNNGo:Tokyo's raunchy underground clubs
The winding streets near the west entrance of the JR Ebisu Station are home to a wealth of bars and restaurants, most all but hidden from sight. A couple of signs outside Bar Tram do their best to entice passersby: "Get Drunk Differently," they say. Head up the stairs and squeeze through the half-door entrance and you'll understand what that means. Bar Tram's specialty is serving absinthe, the strong and some say mind-altering drink that's also known as "the green fairy." Patrons sip the stuff solo at the bar or at small tables. Small groups can also gather on a pair of comfortable leather couches. There are plenty of varieties of absinthe to choose from, plus there's a small section of booze at the bar labeled "Dangerous Bottles." Bar Tram is not everyone's tipple. It accommodates only about 20-25 people and the air is usually thick with cigarette smoke. 2/F Swing Building, 1-2-13 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku; +81 (0) 3 5489 5514; www.small-axe.net/bar-tram-top More on CNNGo: Tokyo's best no-smoking bars
Tokyo is famous for its top-notch, old-school bartenders; men (and some women) who have honed the craft and adhere to a strict set of rules when they mix up the classics. Among the best, Star Bar is a cozy establishment in Ginza squeezed into a space no bigger than a single train car. This is where top barman Hisashi Kishi works his magic, using five distinctive shake patterns to blend his creations, including his celebrated Sidecar. B1/F Sankosha Building, 1-5-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku; +81 (0) 3 3535 8005; seat charge ¥2,000; www.starbar.jp Don't miss: Why Japanese bartenders are the best in the world
Hidetsugu Ueno used to toil away at Star Bar before opening up his own place, Bar High Five (also in Ginza). Some people have closets that are more spacious than this watering hole, which can accommodate just a handful of lucky drinkers. Ueno is fluent in English and famous for his White Lady. 4/F, 26 Polestar Building, 7-2-14 Ginza Chuo-ku; +81 (0) 3 3571 5815; seat charge ¥1,500 Two Rooms This swank establishment in Aoyama is a favorite with Tokyo visitors. Japanese who know what to do in Tokyo love it, too. And Mark Zuckerberg must "like" it, as well. Regulars spotted the Facebook founder and his entourage there last New Year's Eve. Two Rooms has low lighting, lots of wood and an expansive terrace. It also has a private room just off the glass-faced, walk-in wine cellar (home to 1,800 bottles). Drinks don't come cheap. A glass of wine or a cocktail will cost you ¥1,400-¥2,300. Two Rooms has a sister location in Roppongi, the R2 Supperclub. 5/F AO Building, 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; +81 (0) 3 3498 0002; expensive; www.tworooms.jp More on CNNGo: R2 Supperclub -- Tokyo's secret speakeasy?
Anthony Bourdain featured Bar Ishinohana on his TV program, "No Reservations." That's probably because owner Shinobu Ishigaki is an award-winning bartender with a penchant for creative garnishes. Really creative. He readily mixes all the big-name drinks, but his signature is the Claudia, a rum-pineapple-vermouth concoction that features a cherry plunked inside a dug-out radish, with a lime peel coiled like a snake around the stem of the glass. B1/F Daini Yaki Building, 3-6-2 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; +81 (0) 3 5485 8405; no seat charge; www.ishinohana.com More on CNNGo: 6 unbreakable rules from the Japanese bar KaraokeIf you've come to Tokyo to pour your heart out in song, you've come to the right place. Walking around town, you wouldn't know that the karaoke business is in decline. It seems like there's one of these singing havens on every corner. That's a lot of people belting out "Living on a Prayer." Clearly, an old-fashioned, stonewashed singsong is what to do in Tokyo, even in 2013.
This karaoke chain has branches all over the city. The hourly rates are cheap and the closing time is late. One go-to outlet is in Roppongi, where the rooms are spread out over three floors. 7-14-12 Roppongi, Minato-ku; +81 (0) 3 5770 7700; usually ¥500-600 an hour per room; www.big-echo.jp
Mancy's puts a fancy, VIP spin on the karaoke experience. Rooms have large sofas, plush cushions, soft rugs, artwork and mood lighting. It's pricey, but a worthy experience nonetheless. 1-3-9 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku; +81 (0) 3 5574 7007; ¥4,000-¥20,000 an hour per room; www.trhd.jp/mancys More on CNNGo:Tokyo's 5 wackiest karaoke parlors Shopping / Attractions
Starting at the top, the luxury and designer gang's all here, some of them in well-designed digs -- the Prada outlet in Aoyama and Louis Vuitton store in Roppongi are both photo-worthy. Many beat a path to the 34,000-square-meter Omotesando Hills complex, which has about 100 brand-name shops and restaurants. Omotesando Hills: 4-12-10 Jingu-mae, Shibuya-ku; +81 (0) 3 3497 0310; www.omotesandohills.com/english
The sprawling complex is also home to unique Japanese shops, including jewelry designer Yoshinob. In addition, Roppongi Hills has a hotel, the Grand Hyatt Tokyo (rooms start at ¥38,000), a movie theater with a VIP screening lounge (¥3,500 gets you a ticket and a drink) and an observation deck with 360-degree views of Tokyo and the surrounding area (¥1,500 per person). For an extra ¥300, visitors not prone to vertigo can step outside onto the Sky Deck. Still puzzling over what to do in Tokyo? Roppongi Hills: 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; +81 (0) 3 6406 6000; www.roppongihills.com/en Souvenirs The Oriental Bazaar traces its roots to 1916 and claims that shoppers who visit can get almost anything related to Japan. Visitors will find kimonos for adults and kids, Hello Kitty key holders and lacquerware, along with art and antiques. 5-9-13 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku; +81 (0) 3 3400 3933
Takeshita Dori is one of the places Gwen Stefani's Harajuku Girls go to stock up on cheap togs and accessories. The 400-meter-long walking street is a must-see for visitors keen to sample some of the styles worn by Japanese youth -- frilly dresses with low hemlines, wigs, trinkets and T-shirts. Keep your camera on standby -- Tokyo's cosplay aficionados like to strut around in this area (and closer to the train station), showing off their outfits like proud peacocks. Takeshita Dori also has cafés, fast food outlets, a Hello Kitty ice cream stand and a three-story ¥100 shop (Daiso, Japan's version of the Dollar Store). Takeshita Dori is located directly across from the Takeshita Exit (not the main exit) of JR Harajuku Station More on CNNGo: 5 craziest hidden Tokyo fashion boutiques Shimokitazawa This neighborhood is Tokyo's bastion of bohemia, a place where college and university kids go to hang out and maybe catch some live music. Shimokitazawa has big brands (such as French chain Petit Bateau), but is known more for its local boutiques, which sell everything from vintage clothing to vinyl. The Shimokitazawa Garage Department (2-2-8 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, +81 03 3412 0847) is a trendy indoor bazaar with 20 or so small stores selling hats, used and new clothing, jewelry, bags, bikes and T-shirts. Village Vanguard (Marche Building, 2-10-15 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, +81 (0) 3 3460 6145) is a national chain in Japan, but some say its coolest outlet is in Shimokitazawa. It's billed as an "Exciting Book Store," but it offers much more. A dizzying array of stuffed toys, watches, cards and Japanese manga, plus joke items (poop-shaped hats, plastic purses that look like blackfin tuna) and light sex toy fare.
What to do in Tokyo? Temples, that's what. Most people who visit Japan end up setting foot in at least one shrine or temple. Tourists often head straight for Tokyo's oldest temple, the Sensō-ji Buddhist Temple in Asakusa. After walking through the Hozomon Gate, visitors will see the main hall and the five-story pagoda. The Shinto Asakusa Shrine stands next to the main building. Nakamisa Dori is also nearby. It's a shopping street selling a vast range of items, including Japanese yutaka (summer kimono), fans and ninja costumes for kids. There are also dozens of cafés and restaurants in the nearby area -- take the Ginza, Asakusa or Tobu lines to Asakusa Station. Meiji Shrine in Harajuku is a big draw with the foreign and Japanese tourist crowds. The Shinto shrine, surrounded by a small urban forest (170,000 trees), is dedicated to the souls of Emperor Meiji and his consort Empress Shoken. Visitors walk through the large torii gates and up a gravel pathway to the shrine buildings. Meiji Shrine is packed during the New Year period -- take the Chiyoda or Fukutoshin lines to Meiji Jingu Mae Station, or the Yamanote Line to Harajuku Station. Not into big crowds? You could always head to a neighborhood temple, such as the Meguro Fudoson Ryusenji Temple -- take the Tokyu Meguro Line to Fudo-mae Station, walk 10 minutes. More on CNNGo: Beyond the temples -- touring arty Japan
This is where Japan's emperor and empress rest their pampered royal heads. The Palace, a 10-minute walk from Tokyo Station, was built in the late 1800s, destroyed during World War II and then rebuilt. It's surrounded by gardens and a moat, with two bridges (one stone, one wooden) forming the entrance to the inner grounds. Aside from guided tours, the Palace grounds are open to the public only on December 23 (Emperor Akihito's birthday) and January 2 (Imperial Family's New Year greeting). The Imperial Palace East Gardens are open all year round except Mondays, Fridays and special occasions. For the most current information, check The Imperial Household Agency website before visiting. More on CNNGo: Running rings around the Imperial Palace
April is cherry blossom season in Tokyo and for about three weeks, the city floats on a cloud of pink-and-white flowers. It's the time of year friends and family get together to sit in parks for hanami, or flower viewing. This also involves a lot of eating, drinking and boisterous merrymaking. Tens of thousands of people pack Ueno Park to stroll or hold hanami parties -- take the Yamanote Line to Ueno Station. Others flock to Kitanomaru Park, part of the outer gardens of the Imperial Palace and home to the National Museum of Modern Art, the Science Museum and the Nippon Bodokan, a venue for martial arts competitions and concerts -- take the Tozai Line to Kudanshita Station or Takebashi Station. The cherry trees that hang over the Meguro River in Nakameguro are also stunning. Vendors set up stalls selling food, beer and pink Champagne. Lanterns lining the river are lit up at night, adding to the ambiance -- take the Hibiya Line or the Toyoko Line to Nakameguro Station. More on CNNGo: Best Tokyo parks -- our pick of the top spots
You've got to be a morning person if you want to check out the real action at Tsukiji. The market, which handles the largest volume of fishery products in Japan (more than 450 kinds), opens its famous fish auction at 5 a.m. It also has a sometimes-overlooked outer market, where shoppers can pick up seasonal fruit and vegetables, beans, spices and more. Take the Hibiya Line to Tsukiji Station or the Oedo Line to Tsukijishijo and follow your nose. 5-2 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku; +81 (0) 3 3543 4176; www.tsukiji-market.or.jp More on CNNGo: An insider's guide to Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market
Poor Tokyo Tower. For more than half a century, the 333-meter tower was the tallest in the land. People came from far and wide to zip up to its observatory deck and take in the views of Tokyo, Mount Fuji and Mount Tsukuba. They'd also meet its weird, phallic mascots, the Noppon Brothers. About 150 million people have climbed Tokyo Tower since it opened in 1958 (¥820 to the 100-meter deck, ¥600 more to the 250-meter deck). But now it has a rival -- the 634-meter Tokyo Sky Tree, which is now the world's tallest tower. Two observatories (350 meters and 450 meters) will be open to the public as of May 22. The higher of the two will feature an "air corridor" -- a glass outer walkway, with an eye-watering ¥3,000 to get to the 450-meter deck. Tokyo Sky Tree can be accessed from Narihirabashi Station on the Tobu Isesaki Line -- the station name will change in May to Tokyo Sky Tree Station -- or Oshiage Station on the Hanzomon and Asakusa subway lines. Tokyo Tower can be accessed from Akabanebashi Station on the Oedo Line, Kamiyacho Station on the Hibiya Line, Onarimon Station on the Mita Line and Daimon Station on the Asakusa Line. More on CNNGo: Tokyo Sky Tree completes -- World's tallest tower prepares to open First published March 2012, updated April 2013    |
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