Monday, March 18, 2013

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Gallery: Spain's bizarre annual fire festival

Posted: 18 Mar 2013 06:59 AM PDT

We can't decide if this is artsy, meta or just plain mad. 

Every year, the Spanish city of Valencia (population 809,000) shuts down and sets its streets ablaze for its annual fire festival heralding the advent of spring. 

Citizens and artists work year round on designing, constructing and painting fallas, gigantic cardboard monuments made up of caricature figures, and then burn them up in a spectacular climactic blaze.

Some 700 streets are closed to make way for revelers and firemen. 

The festival begins March 15 and culminates with the city-wide fires on March 19. For more information, check out our gallery and www.fallasfromvalencia.com.

More on CNN: 52 things to do in 2013

Famed Hong Kong airport gets new lease on life

Posted: 17 Mar 2013 11:31 PM PDT

Hong Kong's Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, formerly the notoriously challenging Kai Tak Airport, has received its first group of cruise ship passengers.

Once known for its extreme proximity to residential neighborhoods, Kai Tak's runway area has been dormant for more than 15 years since it closed in 1998, replaced by the current Chek Lap Kok or Hong Kong International Airport.

Although it is incomplete and will not open officially until later in the year, more than 2,000 passengers traveling on a two-week voyage on Celebrity Millennium disembarked at Kai Tak over the weekend for a trial run at the terminal.

The ship will berth for three days before pushing off on Monday.

"Maneuvering is easier here because of the open area. Ocean Terminal [the current main cruise terminal in Hong Kong] is more confined," Celebrity Millennium captain Kostas Patsolas told South China Morning Post.

The captain also noted currents could make mooring more difficult than at Ocean Terminal on a windy day, according to the report. It took the vessel 45 minutes to dock.

More on CNN: The future of Hong Kong's harborfront

Public transportation to the terminal is not yet available and most of the infrastructures is incomplete, according to local media (Chinese only).

Retail shops are expected to move in towards the end of the year. A 24-hour coach service was provided to transport Celebrity Millennium passengers between the city center and the terminal.

The new terminal is scheduled to open in two phrases -– the first berth will open officially on June 1 and the second berth a month later.

Upon completion, the terminal will be able to accommodate the world's biggest vessels, at around 360 meters long.

The cruise terminal building is designed by Foster + Partners.

More on CNN: Hong Kong to get harborside observation wheel

10 of London’s oldest, greatest pubs

Posted: 17 Mar 2013 10:59 PM PDT

London has two great attributes ­-- history and beer. OK it has more, but those are the two we're concerned with today.

Many years ago, in the city's most illustrious pubs, pirates and body snatchers did business, bloody, bare-knuckle fistfights took place and literary greats -- including Charles Dickens and Samuel Pepys -- found their inspiration.

Today people's faces flicker less by the light of an oil lantern and more by the screen of an iPad, but they're still there to enjoy the same things -- great ales, warm rooms and happy company.

Here's where to continue the pub-gathering tradition that Londoners have always done so well.

Ye Olde Mitre, Holborn, established 1546

Ye Old MitreQuaint on the outside, cozy and serene inside.

Bishop Goodrich built the first pub in this spot.

Nestled between two lanes, it remains a cozy little boozer today. There are no noisy TVs or flashing fruit machines.

Instead, décor includes Tudor beams, coal fires, portraits of Henry VIII and dozens of whisky water jugs hanging from the ceiling.

There are tiny rooms to choose from, such as the royal red, loungey Bishop's Room or Ye Closet­ -- a cubbyhole that intimately seats six people.

The place is stuffed with character, but don't expect a bunch of raucous vagrants smashing tankers together and spilling beer all over the floor -- it's now a sedate drinking spot frequented by bankers, Fleet Street hacks and tourists eating homemade pork pies.

Beer of choice: Dark Star American Pale Ale. "Dark Star American Pale Ale is made from an American yeast strain, giving it that light color, strong hoppy, dry taste," says the barwoman. A very clean, drinkable pint, golden yellow in color with hoppy citrus notes. £3.50 (US$5.50) per pint.

Verdict: Superb pub hits all the marks, from old world charm to carefully chosen beers.

30 Ely Court, London EC1N 6TD; +44 207 405 4751; www.yeoldemitreholburn.co.uk

Ye Olde Bell Tavern, the City, established 1670

The old bellNot even a Great Fire can keep a London pub down.

There's been a tavern in this very spot for more than 300 years; originally it was named "The Swan."

The best seat in the house is by the window, under the kaleidoscopic stained glass. The main bar area is simple and to the point -- solid tables crowd around the central bar.

The building was destroyed in 1666 thanks to the Great Fire of London, but architect Sir Christopher Wren rebuilt the inn for his masons, who were working on St. Bride's Church.

It's also believed the printer Wynkyn de Worde used this pub as a workshop and sold his books here hundreds of years ago.

Much later, London gin distillers Nicholson's bought the building.

Beer of choice: Betty Stogs. This golden biscuit-colored, malty copper Cornish ale is one of the finest cask ales on the pumps here. Concocted by Skinner's Brewery, this beer has a light hoppy aroma and goes down smoothly, with hints of citrus and wheat along the way. £3.40 (US$5.40) per pint.

Verdict: Decent beer selection but lacking atmosphere.

95 Fleet St., London EC4Y 1DH; +44 207 583 0216; www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk

Lamb & Flag, Covent Garden, established 1772

Lamb and FlagThe original fight club.

In the 1800s, locals called this pub the Bucket of Blood, due to the regular, rowdy bare-knuckle fistfights held here.

Today there's no sign of spilled guts or brawls; instead it's a cramped, family-friendly bar that serves tourists a mean gravy-laden roast on Sunday.

The first building in this spot dates to 1638 and the first pub existed under the name The Coopers Arms.

Today, the historic photographs of Charles Dickens (believed to be a regular customer) are worth a peep, as is the diminutive staircase up to the loos -- not easy to negotiate after a few cold ones.

Beer of choise: Black Cab Stout. Guinness drinkers will love this Fuller's cask beer. The rich, dark brew has got a sharp but full flavor that comes from the mixture of malts, hoppy, dark chocolate and red berry notes. Delicious. £4.05 ($6.50) per pint.

Verdict: Brilliant bitter selections, but the bar area can get uncomfortably crowded.

33 Rose St., London WC2E 9EB, +44 207 497 9504; www.lambandflagcoventgarden.co.uk

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, the City, established 1667

Ye Old Cheshire CheeseEven darker and dingier on the inside.

This tardis-like, six-tiered building feels more like a museum than a pub. American accents and the sound of Japanese tourists clicking cameras resonate though the tiny hallways.

The reason they're here -- it's unfathomably old.

Renamed the Cheshire Cheese in 1667, the first pub on this site was Horn Tavern, built in 1538. Prior to this it was an inn, during the 13th century, owned by the Carmelite Monastery.

There's no natural light inside and each room has a different flavor. The smallest, near the entrance, is Victorian in character. Above the doorway a sign reads, "Gentlemen only served in this bar," but this rule no longer applies.

Inside are striking original portraits, a roaring coal fire and woodchips scattered around the floor ­-- as there would have been years ago ­-- to soak up the spilled beer, dirt and bile walked in from the streets outside.

A converted cellar decorated with beer barrels offers a rustic feel, while the higher floors are elegantly furnished, softer and regal.

Beer of choice: Old Brewery Bitter. Sam Smith brews dominate the pumps and fridges here. Three pumps pour this oak cask-aged bitter. It flows a mellow clear amber color and settles with a thick cream-colored frothy head. It's malty, bitter and citrusy, with a caramel kick and a dreamy kiss of oak from the cask. £2.90 (US$4.50) per pint.

Verdict: Excellent novelty value and tasty beers, but lacking ale varieties.

145 Fleet St., London EC4A 2BU, +44 207 353 6170

Spaniards Inn, Hampstead, established 1585

Spaniards InnThe seat where Dick Turpin once sat?

On the edge of the Heath, along a dark winding lane with hanging trees, the Spaniards Inn guards the boundary between Hampstead and Highgate.

It reeks of clandestine meetings and highwaymen in black cloaks holding up passers-by.

This isolated pub dates to 1585 and was immortalized in Charles Dickens' "The Pickwick Papers."

Legend holds that famous villain Dick Turpin was born here, and learned his criminal ways in the pub.

Reportedly, John Keats penned "Ode to a Nightingale" in the garden.

Today, in the smaller rooms, the ceilings remain low, and the antique dark wood furniture give it an authentic feel, while cabinets show off the inn's heritage with extracts from relevant Dickensian literature and Turpin memorabilia.

Beer of choice: Revolutions Atomic Blonde. This Yorkshire bitter pours as a glass of golden amber, with a tight clean head. It's a medium-bodied beer and goes down smoothly, leaving a soft fruity hop linger. £4 (US$6.35) per pint.

Verdict: The incredible legacy and moody setting makes up for a shortage in beer choice.

Spaniards Road, London NW3 7JJ, +44 208 731 8406; www.thespaniardshampstead.co.uk

The Mayflower, Rotherhithe, established 1550

The MayflowerNice spot for some Scurvy.

Rifles, ropes, model ships and pulleys clutter the ceilings and sideboards, evoking images of explorers and drunken sailors.

Dickensian scribbles above the chunky black beams read "poverty and oysters always seem to go together."

This nautical-themed pub sits on the site of the former Shippe pub, built in 1550, making it the oldest pub on the River Thames (give or take a few refurbs here and there).

Over the years the building has changed monikers ­-- from Shippe to The Spread Eagle, The Crown and The Mayflower (named after the vessel of the same name, which took to the seas here in 1620 to discover America).

Regardless of the signage, this spot has remained a cozy grotto and looks the part, from the tanker beer mugs to the taxidermy trimmings (mounted dear heads and stuffed rats in cages).

When the weather is warm, the place opens its beautiful French doors onto a deck overlooking the Thames and a spectacular view of London Bridge.

Beer of choice: Scurvy. "Have you ever had Scurvy?" the barman chuckles. "I would recommend it, it's our home brew." Sold. This beautifully bitter specialist ale is created by Hardys & Hansons brewery. It pours medium brown with half an inch of puffy head and offers mellow bitter, slightly fruity, hoppy notes. £3.60 (US$5.75) per pint.

Verdict: Top points for ambiance and guest ale selection.

117 Rotherhithe St., London SE16 4NF, +44 207 237 4088; www.themayflowerrotherhithe.com

The George Inn, Southwark, established 1677

The George Inn tapsIs there a pub in London that Charles Dickens didn't visit?

The outside terrace is the best place to marvel at this impressive, wonky building.

Now owned by the National Trust, The George Inn has been around since 1543, when it was a medieval coaching inn (roadhouse).

Those in need of liquid refreshment can relax in various sections of the building, including The Old Bar, once a waiting room for passengers; The Middle Room, where Charles Dickens used to drink; and The Gallery, set up on the second floor with exposed beams, tapestries, old maps and portraits of characters such as David Beaton (the Archbishop of St. Andrews from 1539-1546) and Shakespeare ­ ­-- both former guests.

Beer of choice: The George Ale. They serve prestigious Cask Marque ale here and the house's own George Ale "is very popular pour," says the barwoman. "Greene King brewery makes this special brew for us." Dark amber and clear in complexion this pint gets tastier as it warms up, and has a pleasant aftertaste. £3.55 (US$5.60) per pint.

Verdict: Steeped in mystery and tales from bygone eras, you can almost hear the carts rolling in, while daydreaming over a pint.

75-77 Borough High St., London SE1 1NH, +44 207 407 2056; www.gkpubs.co.uk

Angel, Rotherhithe, established 1850

Angel pub in RotherhitheDrink where the locals drink. Even if they stare.

This historic pub overlooks both the ancient ruins of King Edward III's Manor House (built in 1353) and rows of council estates -- which explains its peculiar mixture of clientele.

Downstairs it's clearly a locals pub. Every head in the place is likely to turn as you walk in and the barman is likely to curse and moan about the smoking ban.

Meanwhile, tourists sit quietly upstairs in the dining area, gazing out of the window at London's beautifully lit-up bridges.

There's been an inn here since the 15th century; the monks of Bermondsey Priory built the first one.

Although the front of the building has been completely refurbished, its legends remain -- Captain Cook supposedly drank here before he embarked on his perilous journey to Australia, and Samuel Pepys was a local during the 17th century.

Sadly, nowadays, the atmosphere is cold and doesn't live up to its fables -- the interiors are sparse and spacious, with obligatory nautical artworks and some dog-eared shipping books.

Beer of choice: Extra Stout. The Angel serves only keg Samuel Smiths' beers. This dark pour is the best of the bunch. It's a decent full-flavored malt with a perfectly creamy head and bitter, dry finish. However, there's too much fizz; this brew is far superior from a hand pump. £2.90 (US$4.60) per pint.

Verdict: Disappointing. History but no soul (or ale).

101 Bermondsey Wall, London SE16 4NB, +44 207 394 3214

The Prospect of Whitby, Wapping, established 1520

Prospect of WhitbyHangout for smugglers, pirates and now you.

Formerly known as the Devil's Tavern, The Prospect of Whitby was a renowned hangout for smugglers, villains and pirates, the latter who traded contraband and sold bodies that had washed up from the river.

There's been a pub in this spot during the rule of 22 monarchs and visitors over the years and clients have included everyone from pirate Captain Kidd and novelist Charles Dickens to actor Richard Burton and Princess Margaret.

It certainly looks the part -- real masts are built into the structure, Union Jacks are pinned to the ceiling, old barrels and ships wheels are dotted around and the bar is topped with pewter.

On the balcony, there's a creepy noose swinging in the wind to commemorate George Jeffreys ("The Hanging Judge"), who would drink here after a day's work at the Execution Dock.

Beer of choice: Doom Bar. This Sharp's brewery bitter pours a copper-rust color and has a malty aroma with herbal hints, plus caramel and bread notes. Very drinkable, if a little sweet. £3.35 (US$5.25) per pint.

Verdict: Ticks all the boxes, but the main open-plan layout doesn't offer the cute olde feel of other historic pubs.

57 Wapping Wall, London E1W 3SH; +44 203 582 4875; www.taylor-walker.co.uk

The Grapes, Limehouse, established 1583

The GrapesWhere Dickens, Pepys and Gandalf come together.

Only one thing in this pub alludes to its celebrity owner ­-- a "Lord of the Rings" Gandalf statue in the corner.

This looks remarkably out of place next to the Dickens volumes, busts and Singer sewing machine tables. But it references the pub's newest landlord, Sir Ian McKellen, who bought it in 2011.

McKellen isn't the only A-lister to tread its boards. Charles Dickens (he got around), explorer Sir Walter Raleigh and Samuel Pepys all came here.

Mostly though, this was a sketchy boozer for laborers from the nearby Limehouse Basin. Not a place you wanted to be walking home from -- horror stories include watermen murdering drunks from this pub by drowning them in the Thames.

Beside the legends, the antique detailing, dainty frosted windows, historic portraits and rustic dark wood paneling are worth the visit.

Beer of choice: Marston's Pedigree Pale Ale. Hand pumped, it pours dark amber, and tastes malty and dry, with added sweet and spicy notes. £3.60 (US$5.75) per pint.

Verdict: Atmospheric décor, but locals keep their distance from the annoying one-timers.

76 Narrow St., London E14 8BP, +44 207 987 4396; www.thegrapes.co.uk

5 must-visit Okinawa castles

Posted: 17 Mar 2013 02:59 PM PDT

Destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa In 1945, Shuri Castle was reconstructed in 1992.While most visitors come to Okinawa for its natural attractions –- beaches, weather, wildlife -–  the island prefecture is also a hotbed of archeological significance.

This is primarily manifest in a hefty supply of castle ruins, which are at least 100 years older than their mainland Japan counterparts.

At one point, Okinawa was the site of more than 220 castles, dating to the 15th century, when the area was known as the Ryukyu Kingdom. 

These days, you can't travel far without seeing castle ruins, some with walls still standing, many currently undergoing renovation. 

Others have been neglected for so long that time and erosion have left only a few blocks of once magnificent structures. 

According to Dr. Hideo Inoue, retired professor at the Okinawa Prefectural University of Arts, most of the castles were closed or destroyed about 500 years ago.

Known as "gusuku" in the Okinawan language, castles and castle ruins remain available to the modern visitor. A handful, including a couple UNESCO-listed heritage sites, rise above the rest.

More on CNN: Where is Okinawa? 

1. Shuri Castle

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Shuri Castle is the only fully restored castle in Okinawa. Shuri Castle is the top remaining testament to the Ryukyu Dynasty. It's also one of nine UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Okinawa. 

At least a few hours are needed to tour the magnificent site and surrounding shrines. At certain times of the year, the castle is the scene of reenactments of royal processions and other important moments in history.  

Shuri is the only Okinawa castle that's been restored to its full, former glory. 

It was almost completely destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945. In 1992, it was rebuilt based on historical documents and pictures.  

The castle is located in the busy Okinawa capital of Naha, but once you enter the grounds it's easy to forget you're in the middle of a bustling city.  

1-2 Kinjo-cho, Shuri, Naha City; +81 (0)98 886 2020; www.oki-park.jp/shurijo-park

2. Katsuren Castle 

Katsuren Castle was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2000. Katsuren Castle is located northeast of Shuri Castle, in the city of Uruma.

It's built on a large limestone plot on a peninsula surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, giving it the nickname "Ocean Gusuku."

Also designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Katsuren has a small museum filled with artifacts excavated at the site, including pieces from Korea, China, Japan and Southeast Asia. 

3908 Haebaru, Katsuren, Uruma City; +81 (0) 98 978 7373; www.jcastle.info/castle/profile/110-Katsuren-Castle

3. Nakagusuku Castle

Nakagusuku's Ryukyu limestone ramparts have been well preserved. Located in the city of Kitanakagusuku, Nakagusuku -- or Naka Castle -- was built in the late 15th century to protect against attacks from the neighboring lord of Katsuren Castle. 

With six courtyards, this fascinating ruin is a prime example of the masonry techniques used at the time -- most of the stacked stone walls are still standing. 

Visitors can catch gorgeous, panoramic views of the East China Sea and the Pacific Ocean from the top terrace.

5030 Oshiro, Kitanakagusuku Village; +81 (0)98 935 5719; www.nakagusuku-jo.jp/en

More on CNN: Exploring Okinawa's World War II History

4. Nakijin Castle

Nakijin Castle enjoys elevated views atop a 100-meter-high hill.Nakijin Castle is located in the city of Nakijin, west of Nago on the Motubu peninsula.

Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, most of it lies in ruins, but there are a few limestone walls still standing and a large museum filled with ancient artifacts and insight into the history of the area.

Nakijin was once a center of religious activity and features several utaki (sacred groves).

A visual treat is the view of the East China Sea -- quality on even a cloudy day.

The best time to visit is January or February, when the grounds' many hikan cherry trees are in bloom.

Hantabaru Imadomari, Nakijin Village; +81 (0)98 056 4400; Nakijinjo.jp/english/index.html

5. Tamagusuku Castle

Standing among the stones and vegetation of Tamagusuku, you feel a powerful sense of history. Tamagusuku Castle is said to have been the first castle on Okinawa, built by the legendary creator of the Ryukyus, goddess Amamikiyo.  

Don't expect grand walls and stairways. Tamagusuku Castle's ruins are exactly that -- ruins. 

Not much is left standing, but its significance and beautiful views make it worthy of inclusion on an Okinawa castle-hopping itinerary. 

444 Tamagusuku, Monbara, Nanjo City; www.okinawastory.jp

More on CNN: Okinawa: Which island is for you? 

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