Wednesday, August 14, 2013

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CNNGo in Yangon: Colonial buildings, artisan cheese and local art

Posted: 13 Aug 2013 07:00 PM PDT

CNNGo explores this evolving yet well-preserved Myanmar city

Changes are coming to Myanmar and that has the residents of Yangon feeling optimistic.

Their city of golden pagodas is opening to the outside world and they can't wait to show off a blossoming arts community, a growing preservation movement and a small but committed group of foodies.

Sofaer Building

Sofaer BuildingOriginal tiles imported from Manchester a century ago are a highlight of the Sofaer Building.​Built by merchant Isaac Sofaer in 1906, this heritage building in downtown Yangon once attracted the city's rich and powerful, who came to buy Egyptian cigarettes and imported liqueurs and to frequent the famous Vienna cafe.

Now, the aging structure is home to the Lokanat Art Gallery, a guest house, law firm and a number of squatters' apartments.

Travelers can wander inside and take a break at the family-run tea shop while appreciating the colonial architecture, including original tiles imported from Manchester.

The Sofaer is part of a cluster of heritage buildings that make walking around modern Yangon a delight, though many of these landmarks are in desperate need of care.

Sofaer Building, 58-62 Pansodan St., Yang

More on CNN: 10 meals every Myanmar traveler should try


Sharky's

Sharky'sSharky's features "made in Myanmar" ingredients.​It's hard to imagine anyone moving to Myanmar 18 years ago with a dream of producing artisan cheeses, but that's the backstory of Ye Htut Win, founder of the Yangon restaurant and deli Sharky's.

This popular local joint specializes in high-end meals created with "made in Myanmar" ingredients.

Not only does Sharky's produce 18 kinds of cheese, it makes its own bread, aged meats, gelato, even homemade "tabasco" sauce.

For Ye, good business is about more than delivering good food, it's about making sure "everyone profits out of the whole food chain," he says.

Sharky's, 17, Dhamazedi Road, Kamayut Township, Yangon; +951 524 677


Bogyoke Aung San Market

Taw Win Art GalleryFrom young artists' work to the fabric for a traditional longyi (skirt).Packed with vendors selling everything from jewelry to fabrics to handicrafts, ​it's easy to get overwhelmed in this downtown market.

Take your time wandering through the stalls and you'll find some lovely bespoke gifts to take home.

Mizo (no. 685, East B) specializes in hand-woven fabrics from villages in Myanmar's various provinces.

The Taw Win Art Gallery (No. 2) sells works from young Yangon artists at affordable prices. Bargaining is expected.

Bogyoke Aung San Market, Bogyoke Aung San Road, Yangon

​More on CNN: What to do in Yangon 


Shwe Sa Bwe

Shwe Sa BweA place to eat well and support the underprivileged at the same time.Shwe Sa Bwe founder Francois Stoupan fell in love with Myanmar and started this training hotel and restaurant as a way of giving back to the country.

Underprivileged Myanmar youth are given free training in European culinary skills and service. Once they graduate, they're expected to stay in Myanmar and help develop the local economy.

Lunch and dinner is served seven days a week.

Shwe Sa Bwe, 20, Malikha St., Mayangone Township, Yangon; +95 1 661 983 


19th Street in Chinatown

19th Street in ChinatownEverything tastes better with a Myanmar beer, the tasty and inexpensive local brew.​After the sun goes down, locals head to 19th Street in Chinatown for a beer and a taste of the local barbecue.

Yangon residents pack outdoor tables here to enjoy laid-back atmosphere, street musicians and affordable food and drink.

Grab a plastic basket and choose from meat, seafood and vegetables already on sticks. The restaurants will grill it and bring it to your table. 

19th Street, Latha Township, Yangon

​More on CNN: Myanmar's best beaches


10 meals every Myanmar traveler should try

Posted: 13 Aug 2013 03:00 PM PDT

Rich, savory Burmese cuisine has been hidden away for half a century. That's about to change

With Myanmar opening to the outside world, visitors are discovering a cuisine that's been largely hidden from sight for the last 50 years.

With an emphasis on rich, predominately savory/salty flavors, influences from South and Southeast Asia and a repertoire of ingredients not found in any other cuisine, there's much to discover.

As in most of Southeast Asia, Myanmar restaurants and stalls tend to specialize in a single dish or culinary style.

For a comprehensive taste of the cuisine, we've chosen these 10 Burmese dishes and snacks. Every visitor to the country should seek them out.

Tea leaf salad

Laphet thoke can be a meal, snack or appetizer.

​Perhaps the most famed Burmese food is lephet -- fermented tea leaves.

The tart leaves are eaten on their own, typically as dessert, but they're also served in the form of lephet thoke, a salad of pickled tea leaves.

To make the dish, the sour, slightly bitter leaves are mixed by hand with shredded cabbage, sliced tomatoes, crunchy deep-fried beans, nuts and peas, a splash of garlic oil and pungent slices of chili and garlic.

The dish is versatile. It can be a snack, an appetizer or, coupled with a plate of rice, a meal.

It's also considered a stimulant: the Burmese says that eating too much lephet thoke can prevent sleep.

More on CNN: 11 things to know before visiting Myanmar


Shan-style rice

Nga htamin's essential components: turmeric rice and fish.​​Known in Burmese as nga htamin (fish rice), this Shan (one of the country's main Buddhist ethnic groups) dish combines rice that's been cooked with turmeric and squashed into a disk with a topping of flakes of freshwater fish and garlic oil.

Oily and savory, when served with sides of leek roots, cloves of raw garlic and deep-fried pork rinds, nga htamin becomes a snack that runs the gamut from pungent to spicy.


Burmese curry

Burmese curry meal in Kalaw, Shan State.​A visit to a traditional Burmese restaurant is more than just a meal, it's a culinary experience.

As the name suggests, curry is the central element, but after you've chosen one -- typically a meaty, somewhat oily curry based around pork, fish, shrimp, beef or mutton -- a seemingly never-ending succession of side dishes will follow.

These include rice, a tart salad, a small dish of fried vegetables, a small bowl of soup and a large tray of fresh and par-boiled vegetables and herbs to be eaten with various dips.

Dips range from ngapi ye, a watery, fishy sauce, to balachaung, a dry, spicy mixture of chillies, garlic and dried shrimp fried in oil.

At a Muslim-run curry shop the soup might be a combination of lentils and root vegetables, while the sides might include a few crispy pappadum.

By the time it all arrives, you'll be face to face with a spread of dishes that seems to include all the ingredients, textures and flavors of Myanmar.

After you've finished, you'll also get a traditional Burmese dessert -- a lacquer tray containing pickled tea leaves and nuts, or a jar of chunks of palm sugar.

More on CNN: CNNGo in Yangon: Colonial buildings, artisan cheese and local art


Burmese tea shop meal

Sweet and savory snacks at a tea shop in Kalaw, Shan State.​Myanmar's tea shops aren't just places to sip tiny cups of sweet, milky tea.

They also function as a crash-course on various cuisines of Myanmar -- dishes served often reflect the ethnicity of the shop's proprietor.

Tea shops run by ethnic Burmese are good places to dig into the world of traditional Burmese noodle or rice dishes such as htamin thoke, a type of rice salad.

Indian/Muslim-owned tea shops tend to serve South Asian-influenced, deep-fried savory snacks, such as samosas or poori (deep-fried bread served with a potato curry) or baked breads such nanbya (naan). The latter also often serve South Asian-style desserts.

Chinese-owned tea shops often feature baked sweets as well as meaty steamed buns and dim sum-like items.


Burmese sweet snacks

Burmese sweets at a market in Hpa-an, Kayin State.

​Unlike sweet dishes in the West, Burmese sweets, known collectively as "moun," aren't consumed as dessert but rather as snacks, typically taken with tea in the morning or afternoon.

And unlike sweets elsewhere in Southeast Asia, moun aren't generally packed with sugar, instead getting their sweet flavors from ingredients such as grated coconut, coconut milk, rice flour, cooked sticky rice, tapioca and fruit.

Standout Burmese sweets include hsa nwin ma kin, small cakes of crumbly semolina flour with coconut milk, ghee and raisins; and bein moun and moun pyit thalet, Burmese-style pancakes, served sweet or savory, with a damp, hole-y consistency not unlike an English crumpet.

More on CNN: Myanmar hit by severe hotel shortage


Deep-fried stuff

Deep-fried snacks are widely available on the streets of Yangon.​The Burmese have an obsession with deep-frying foods in oil -- in Myanmar, it's practically impossible to avoid fried foods.

The majority of snacks found on the street or in tea shops -- samosas, spring rolls, savory fritters, sweets, breads -- are deep-fried, and many noodle dishes are topped with akyaw, deep-fried crispy garnishes.

One deep-fried dish particularly worth seeking out is buthi kyaw, battered and deep-fried chunks of gourd.

When served hot, the thin, crisp batter conceals a soft, slightly watery interior of tender gourd, and the fritters are typically served with a sour/sweet dip made from tamarind that can be made savory with the addition of bean powder.


Shan-style 'tofu' noodles

Hto hpu nwe (warm tofu) isn't actually made of tofu.

​One of the most unusual dishes in Myanmar is hto-hpu nwe, literally "warm tofu."

Associated with the ethnic Shan of northern Myanmar, the dish doesn't actually include tofu, but rather a thick porridge made from chickpea flour.

The sticky yellow stuff is served over thin rice noodles, chunks of marinated chicken or pork. It's topped with a drizzle of chili oil and includes sides of pickled veggies and broth.

It's an odd and visually arresting combination, but, if you're a fan of savory flavors, one that will grow on you.

More on CNN: What do do in Yangon 


Nangyi thoke

Nangyi thoke, a "salad" of thick rice noodles.

​The Burmese love "dry" noodle dishes -- essentially noodle-based "salads" with broth served on the side -- and perhaps the tastiest and most ubiquitous is nangyi thoke.

The dish takes the form of thick, round rice noodles with chicken, thin slices of fish cake, par-boiled bean sprouts and slices of hard-boiled egg.

The ingredients are seasoned with a mixture of roasted chickpea flour and turmeric and chili oil, tossed by hand and served with sides of pickled greens and a bowl of broth.


Mohinga

Rice noodles served in a hearty, herbal fish- and shallot-based broth, mohinga is often called Myanmar's national dish.

​Myanmar's unofficial national dish is mohinga -- fine, round rice noodles served in a hearty, herbal fish- and shallot-based broth, often supplemented with the crunchy pith of the banana tree.

It's beloved as a breakfast dish, but, sold by mobile vendors, it's a common snack at any time of day or night.

Optional toppings include a sliced hard-boiled egg and akyaw, deep-fried crispy veggies and/or disks of lentil batter. The dish is seasoned to taste with a squeeze of lime and/or flakes of dried chili.

More on CNN: Myanmar's best beaches


Shan-style noodles

Myanmar's Shan State is famous for noodles.

​The dish most commonly associated with Shan State is this combination of thin, flat rice noodles in a clear, peppery broth with marinated chicken or pork, garnished with toasted sesame and a drizzle of garlic oil. It's served with a side of pickled vegetables.

Compared with most Burmese noodle dishes, it's relatively simple, verging on bland, but is reassuringly comforting and consistently delicious.

A "dry" version, with the broth served on the side, is also common.

More on CNN: Photos: An inside tour of Myanmar

Myanmar's best beaches

Posted: 13 Aug 2013 03:00 PM PDT

Like your sands white and sunsets bright? Myanmar is primed to become Asia's hottest beach destination

Two thousand kilometers of coastline -- much of it long stretches of white sand -- put Myanmar in the running to be Asia's next super-popular beach destination.

Many of Myanmar's beaches are unspoiled and undiscovered, reminiscent of Thailand's beaches 20 years ago.

The best ones are along the shores of the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea -- these beaches face west, virtually guaranteeing great sunsets.

Briton Stephen Barker first visited Myanmar in 1995 and has made more than 10 trips since, usually staying several months at a time. He believes the surge in hotel prices over the last 18 months augers a Myanmar beach stampede come the dry season at the end of the year.

"Given that accommodation is so expensive these days, I think we'll see more people camping on the beach, it could really take off," says Barker, who has made it his mission to explore all the country's beaches.

Here are four of the best Myanmar beaches to visit. 

More on CNN: What to do in Yangon

Ngapali

This is a dream beach with seven kilometers of white sand fringed with palm trees. The turquoise sea is crystal clear.

Several daily flights from Yangon -- a 45-minute flight -- help make this by far the most popular beach in Myanmar.  

Once word gets out, Myanmar's sunsets -- like this beauty in Ngapali -- will be legendary. ​The route by road through the Rakhine Yoma Mountain range has been off limits recently because of trouble in the state.

As it's somewhat remote, this is a place to come for a few days and sink into beach mode. Accommodation options range from small beach huts to villas and there are plenty of restaurants serving fresh seafood.

The beach is named after the Italian city of Naples -- a homesick Italian bestowed the name, so the story goes.

The tourist industry is well developed and there's plenty to do from sea sports -- snorkeling, scuba diving, kayaking -- to cycling and golf.

"This is definitely not the place for backpackers," says Barker. 

"You have to fly in and out and that can make it expensive. Ten years ago prices ranged from $2 to $400 and these days it's very resorty."

More on CNN: What to eat in Myanmar

​Ngwe Saung (Silver Beach)

South of Ngapali and closer to Yangon, the resorts on this stretch of coast arrived a little more than a decade ago.

The sea is as clear as it is in Ngapali, but the area isn't as developed, making it a seriously laid back spot and a great place to do nothing after exploring the country.

Ngwe Saung Beach on the Myanmar shore of the Bay of Bengal. There are flights from Yangon -- a 35-minute trip -- but it's just as easy to do the six-hour road trip. If you want to savor the journey, you can take a 16-hour boat from Yangon to the gateway town of Pathein.

When you've had enough of lying on the beach, there's scuba diving and snorkeling and an island at the end of the beach that you can walk out to at low tide.

You can hire a motorbike if you want to explore the 15-kilometer beach and ride on the hard sand sections and take the road that runs alongside the beach for the rest.

The seafood here is fantastic -- lobster, shrimp, crab, fish -- and if you're on the beach early in the morning you'll probably see fishermen coming in with their catch.

Myanmar will host the 2013 Southeast Asian Games in December -- beach volleyball and sailing events will be held at Ngwe Saung Beach.

"I was there earlier this year," says Barker. "The resorts are spread out and range from $15 to $400 a night, some with very nice pools, but you don't need them because the sea is great.

"We stayed at a place called Shwe Hin Tha. It's a backpacker favorite and costs $25 a night for a beach cabin for two."

More on CNN: 11 things to know before visiting Myanmar

Chuang Tha

Buddhist novices collect morning alms in Chuang Tha, about 240 kilometers west of Yangon. ​Close to Yangon, this beach is popular with middle-class families from the city.

It's not as beautiful as Ngapali or Ngwe Saung beaches -- the sand isn't as white and the beachfront is a jumble of hotels -- but it's hugely popular, especially on weekends and holidays.

If you're here during the high season and want to escape the crowds, you can hire a boat and explore one of the neighboring islands. You'll have to bring your own snorkel set to get a good look at the tropical fish.

"This is where you go if you want to see the Burmese at play," says Barker.

"The beach is very commercial with lots of inflatable things going on. People say the beaches north of Chuang Tha are more attractive."

Kanthaya Beach

This is the Myanmar beach to hit if you really want to get away from development. Kanthaya Beach is unspoiled and undeveloped.

There are no beachside sports and shops, and that's the attraction. You won't be able to book a hotel in advance, but you're sure to find a room when you arrive.

The beach is shallow and 4.5-kilometres long. Unlike the white sandy beach of Ngapali, 100 kilometers north, the sand here is golden and a little gritty.

More on CNN: World's 100 best beaches

Myanmar beach hopping tips

 

The most important thing to remember about the Myanmar beach scene is that resorts close down during the monsoon season, from May to October.

The time to go is December through April -- by spring the water is warm.

Jeans in the sea -- heavy but effective for body-conscious locals. The beach is a great place to be for the Water Festival in April.

​The standard Myanmar beach attire is jeans and a T-shirt -- on the sand and in the sea.

Yes, that's right, the Burmese swim in their jeans. Others wear shorts or cotton pajamas, but this is definitely not the land of the bikini.

Foreigners are afforded an exception, but this isn't the place to flaunt that G-string you've been dying to rock out or decide to go topless.

Myanmar also has the potential to become a surf destination. The waves aren't huge, which makes it perfect for newcomers, but for those after a bigger swells the time to come is the start of the rainy season (May and June).

More on CNN: Photos: An inside tour of Myanmar 

Why Yangon is hot right now

Posted: 12 Aug 2013 07:39 PM PDT

A quick and quirky guide on what to see, do, eat and drink in this up-and-coming Southeast Asia star

Take a cab to town after arriving at Yangon's International Airport and you'll quickly realize you've arrived in a place like no other.

Your taxi driver may have replaced his seat with a garden chair.

Without doubt, he'll be wearing what looks like a skirt and chewing betel, which has turned his mouth a crimson red.

There might be a hole in the floor of the vehicle, or the steering wheel could be upside down. 

It's a theme that'll continue throughout your trip. 

With a lack of international brand saturation and an abundance of parks, lakes and gleaming pagodas, vibrant street life and friendly locals, Yangon, Myanmar's largest city and former capital, is a city worth getting to know before venturing elsewhere in this strange, wonderful country.

Yangon hotels

Guests of The Strand include George Orwell, Noël Coward, Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham and George Soros.

In a city where the demand for beds far exceeds the supply -- read more on the situation in this CNN Travel Myanmar feature -- you'll pay for a nice place to stay.

But make no mistake, there are great hotel options here.

Strand Hotel

The city's most iconic hotel has checked-in the likes of Jagger, Maugham and Kipling and is as elaborate and classy as one would expect of a place that once represented the height of colonialism.

Built in 1901 by a British entrepreneur during British India's heyday, the three-story hotel's Victorian influences are evident in the colonnaded entrance, marble floor inlaid with teak, hand-carved wooden bed frames, rattan furniture, chandeliers and black ceiling fans.

Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Road, Kyauktada township, Yangon; rooms from $340

More on CNN: CNNGo in Yangon: Colonial buildings, artisan cheese and local art​

Alamanda Inn

This quiet, little-known B&B is located in Yangon's leafy Golden Valley district.

Rooms are small and well-kept. It's worth the stay for the adjoined French restaurant alone.

Alamanda Inn, 60B Shwe Taung Gyar Road, Golden Valley, Yangon; rooms from $70

Savoy Hotel

One of Yangon's classiest hotels, the Savoy offers some of the city's best rooms.

Restaurant and bar areas are impressively designed, the latter decked out in a nautical theme.

Savoy Hotel, 129 Dhamazeddi Road (corner of Inya Road), Yangon; rooms from $236

Governor's Residence

This beautiful teak mansion hotel run by Oriental Express is located in a leafy district west of downtown.

With a colonial style and level of luxury that rivals The Strand, rooms here are as gorgeous as you'll find in Yangon. The pool and veranda areas are nice.

Governor's Residence, 35 Taw Win St., Dagon township, Yangon; rooms from $260

More on CNN: 10 meals every Myanmar traveler should try

Yangon nightlife

Big game? Yangon's 50th Street Bar is the spot for expats needing a sports fix.

Yangon veterans recall a time when they were tucked in bed by 9 p.m., simply because there wasn't anything to do after dark.

Not anymore. 

New bars are opening regularly, and there are plenty of into-the-night spots to drink with friendly and willing locals. 

19th Street 

It's loud, lively and there's lots of neon. But this isn't Yangon's version of Bangkok's Khao San Road. 

Instead, it's an authentic local experience, a strip of outdoor bars where the beer flows and where you'll find the best grilled fish in town.

Bottle of Myanmar beer: 800 kyat (80 cents) 

Barbecued fish: 3,500 kyat ($3.50)

19th Street (between Anawratha and Mahabandoola roads), Latha township, Yangon

Vista Rooftop Bar

Taking advantage of its proximity to the Shwedagon Pagoda, the view here will convince you to visit; the well-stocked bar will keep you hanging around.

Glass of Myanmar beer: 1,500 kyat ($1.50)

Glass of house whisky: 3,500 kyat ($3.50)

Vista Rooftop Bar, 168 West Shwegondine Road, Bahan township, Yangon; +95 (0)1 559 481

50th Street Bar

One of Yangon's most famous watering holes, this one is lively most nights and runs regular themed nights.

This is the place to come for big sports matches and good pizza.

Bottle of Myanmar beer: 4,000 kyat ($4) 

Pizza: 6,000-9,000 kyat ($6-9)

50th Street Bar, 9/13, 50th St., Botahtaung townshi, Yangon; +95 (0)1 397 060

Any beer station, anywhere

Myanmar's version of pubs, "beer stations" are often run-down, rustic spots where locals enjoy a drink -- beer or whiskey, or sometimes both, mixed.

Found on many street corners, they're easy to spot -- look for the distinctive logo of local Myanmar beer. 

Glass of Myanmar beer: 600 kyat (60 cents)

Yangon food

It ain't fancy, but Onyx is one of the top spots to hit for a slice of roast beast. Minn Lan Rakhine Seafood

A lively outdoor restaurant, Minn Lan offers some of the best seafood in Yangon. It's brought in from Myanmar's western Rakhine state.

Hot items include preserved prawns and lobster.

One kilo lobster: 25,000 kyat ($25) 

Seafood fried rice: 3,500 kyat ($3.50)

Minn Lan San Chaung outlet, corner of Baho Road and Kyi Tar Road; +95 (0)1 510 285​

Shwe Sa Bwe Restaurant

Located on the northern shore of Inya Lake, this boutique restaurant trains local Burmese looking to pursue a career in the hospitality industry.

They do a good job, too. The menu includes a diverse selection of delicious French-inspired dishes.

Reopens in September after a two-month break.

Set menu: Two courses, 11,000 kyat ($11); three courses, 14,000 kyat ($14)

Shwe Sa Bwe Restaurant, 20 Malikha Road (off Parami Road); +95 (0)1 661 983​

Onyx Restaurant

Open since 2004, Yangon's Onyx Restaurant was once a private escape for members of the city's expat community looking for a Western meal.

That's changing and every night of the week this Korean-run steakhouse is full of people from all over the world enjoying great food and wine.

Steak: 5,000-8,000 kyat ($5-8)

Bottle of wine: Starts from 10,000 kyat ($10)

Onyx Restaurant, 135 Dhamazeddi Road (down side-road just past Inya Road junction); +95 (0)1 524 271

More on CNN: What to eat in Myanmar

Yangon attractions

Shwedagon Pagoda Shwedagon Pagoda, the country's pride and joy, is also its most touristy site.

Shwedagon Pagoda 

Every Yangon visit should include a trip to Shwedagon Pagoda, the country's most famous attraction.

Surveying the city from atop a hill, it's easy to see why it's the nation's pride and joy.

Other pagodas worthy of visits are Sule and Botahtaung, both located downtown. 

Entrance: $5 for foreigners

Dagon, Yangon

Thaketa Crocodile Farm

This little-known crocodile farm houses more than 200 of the sinister species. It can be unnerving walking along the rundown bridge as the crocs wait below, mouths open.

Thaketa Industrial Estate, Thaketa township, Yangon; $1 per person

Drug Elimination Museum

This sprawling museum was built in the late 1990s to show how seriously the government was taking the country's drug problem.

Despite its rather absurd name, it offers insights into a largely unknown problem in the country.

Corner of Kyunthaw and Hanthawaddy roads, Kamayut township, Yangon; $3 per person

More on CNN: 11 things to know before visiting Myanmar

Yangon shopping

Yangon's Bogyoke Aung San market.

Bogyoke Aung San Market

Tourist tack. T-shirts. Traditional Burmese garb.

A popular site, every souvenir you need from your Myanmar visit can be found here. 

Bogyoke Aung San Road, Kyauktada township, Yangon

Mingalar Market

Located in the city's Muslim area, this is the place to hit for an authentic Myanmar market experience. 

Corner of Natmauk and Banyadala roads, Mingalar Taung Nyunt township, Yangon 

More on CNN: Photos: An inside tour of Myanmar