Monday, June 17, 2013

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Skiing in Chile: 7 ways to do southern hemisphere slopes

Posted: 17 Jun 2013 03:00 AM PDT

It's powder season down south and the case for a Chile snow safari is as bold as a hearty cabernet

Skiing, as one witty anonymous figure once said, is "the art of catching cold and going broke while rapidly heading nowhere at great personal risk." 

Yet for many the ski season is all too short. Just as you start to perfect your skills, the snow melts and you have to pack away the boards.

This is where the southern hemisphere comes to the rescue. 

A stronger-than-usual buzz surrounds Chile this year, where the ski season runs from June to October. 

Here's what has skiiers and snowboarders talking.

1. New runs, expanded operations

All this within two hours of the Chilean capital. Two ski resorts -- South America's largest, Valle Nevado.com and South America's oldest, Portillo -- are within day-trip distance of Santiago.

Valle Nevado is less than an hour, just 35 miles, from the capital. "Boutique" resort Portillo (which opened in 1948) is two hours, or 100 miles, away. 

This year marks 25 years since Valle Nevado opened. To mark the occasion, the resort has created a new ski run, expanded Snowpark and will operate Chile's first-ever gondola, which deposits skiers at Bajo Zero mountain restaurant, 3,200 meters (10,498 feet) above sea level.

For a super-speedy commute to the slopes, Valle Nevado has a heli-pad, as does W Santiago. 

Valle Nevado opened last weekend. Portillo opens June 22.

2. Volcano skiing

On a clear day, the view from the Glacier Station reaches to the Pacific Ocean. In a country with hundreds of volcanoes -- some active -- it's logical to make the most of the steep slopes by skiing down them. Chile's newest ski center sits atop Volcan Osorno, in the southern part of the country.

Noted for its visual similarity to Mount Fuji, Osorno is located about 40 miles from Puerto Montt, in the Lake District. It rises 2,662 meters (8,733 feet) above sea level, has two chairlifts, three drag lifts, 12 slopes of varying levels and a season that lasts until October. 

"One of the highlights at Osorno is the snowcar tour," says Raffaele Di Biase, owner of BirdsChile and president of the local Tour Guides Association. "It's a vehicle that takes you up over the snow to the snowy side of the volcano, an area otherwise inaccessible."

On a clear day, the view from the Glacier Station reaches to the Pacific Ocean.

An unexpected perk of volcano skiing: snowshoe excursions to the volcano's crater. 

LAN Airlines runs multiple daily flights between Santiago and Puerto Montt.

BirdsChile+56 9 9235 48 18; day trips with BirdsChile from $150; resort opens June 22 

3. Wine tasting

Chilean wine and the Portillo slopes. Who needs summer? In 2013, chic Portillo brings its popular Wine Week concept to the slopes for the first time.

Between August 3 and 10, top Chilean wine producers will come to Portillo to fill glasses for skiers and snowboarders.

Tastings start at 6:30 p.m. each evening at various locations.

www.skiportillo.com 

4. Snowcat skiing

For off-trail, downhill skiing without a helicopter, snowcat skiing is an exciting alternative.

Near San Estean (67 miles from Santiago), Ski Arpa was the first place in South America to launch cat skiing.

Its longest run is 1,000 vertical meters, and offers spectacular views of Mount Aconcagua. At 6,962 meters (22,841 feet), it's the tallest peak in South America.

"This is some of the best untracked powder in the world," says Kristina Schreck, Chile expert and guidebook writer. "Santiago Adventures will run Ski Arpa this year, which is Chile's only snowcat operation, located in the foothills of the Andes."

There's no lodging at Ski Arpa, but Santiago Adventures offers three-day tours from Santiago and other locations.

You'll have 4,000 acres of terrain at your fingertips, shared among a maximum of 25 people.

Skiiers and snowboarders need to be intermediate or advanced to share these untouched slopes with the guanacos and condors.

Ski Arpa is tour operator; reservations made via Santiago Adventures; +56 2 2244 2750; U.S: +1 802 904 6798; season runs mid-June to mid-October

5. Eco-ski lodges

Just dropping in. North of Osorno, in Araucanía, new eco-hotel Valle Corralco Hotel & Spa opens this season.

Located in the National Reserve of Malalcahuello-Nalcas, the 54-bedroom hotel is linked with the Corralco Mountain & Ski Resort, which opened eight years ago. 

With a new hotel to host skiers, 2013 marks the first year that the Corralco slopes will be open for the entire season.

Corralco

6. Skiing and touring Patagonia

Glamping, Chile-style. Chilean tour operator Cascada Travel offers a great tour for those who want to see some of Patagonia as well as ski.

Its six-day expedition runs in September only -- due to the short window when both the ski slopes and Patagonian "glampsites" are open.

The trip starts with skiing at Valle Nevado before heading south to Ecocamp Patagonia in the spectacular Torres del Paine National Park.

After skiing at Valle Nevado, guests fly to Punta Arenas then drive to Torres del Paine, stopping en route at Milodon Cave, inhabited 10,000 years ago by giant sloths.

At EcoCamp, beds take the form of a dome below the park's famed granite towers.

After a few days exploring the park, including hiking to the base of the towers and taking a boat ride to Grey Glacier, guests return to Santiago.

Cascada Travel; +1 800 901 6987; from $2,039 per person 

7. 'Have it all' package

Don't like to share your powder? Drop in by chopper. If you can't decide among all of the options, Santiago Adventures has a six-day Ultimate South America Skiing & Riding Tour, which includes cat skiing, resort skiing, Maipo Valley winery visits and heli-skiing.

"We offer skiers a one-stop shop to combine multiple resorts and Chile's other wonderful destinations," says Brian Pearson, founder of Santiago Adventures. 

The heli-skiing takes place at Puma Lodge, which opened in 2011 and is Chile's latest skiing sensation.

Santiago Adventures; +56 2 2244 2750; U.S +1 802 904 6798; Puma Lodge; from $3,602 per person

25 best foods for summer

Posted: 16 Jun 2013 03:00 PM PDT

Hurry up and read this story before it melts all over your hands!

In some countries, the coldest, sweetest dishes are considered the best foods for summer. 

In others, the hottest -- in both senses of the word -- are considered the best way to beat the heat. 

Whatever the logic, we're ready to dig into all these summer foods.


kulfiThe matka (clay pot) keeps the kulfi insulated.

Kulfi

This will probably upset gelato fans, but of all the icy, creamy desserts out there, kulfi's our pick for the best one for summer.

A traditional Indian ice cream developed to melt slowly in the heat of the Indian subcontinent, kulfi tends to be creamier and denser than its Western counterparts, with flavors such as rose and mango. 

It's served in matkas (little clay pots) that keep it even more insulated. 

Best at: Mumbai restaurants and dessert shops. Street vendors sell popsicle-like versions. 


eloteIt's hard to go back to plain old butter after trying seasoning like this.

Elote

The Mexican version of corn-on-the-cob may be higher in calories than other styles, but the taste makes the extra weight worth it. 

After being grilled, sticks of golden corn are slathered with cheese or mayonnaise. Chili powder and lime juice are sprinkled on top. 

Best on: the streets of Mexico.

naemyeonMul naengmyeon goes best with some hot galbi.

Naeng myeon

These Korean cold noodlesare served with ice cubes in the broth to keep the dish chilled while you eat.

Chewy buckwheat noodles are mixed with slivers of cucumber, pear, boiled egg or beef and submerged into icy broth for a tangy concoction laced with sharp mustard oil.

Best at: Woolaeoak branches in Seoul. 

GazpachoGazpacho is thought to have Arab roots.

Gazpacho

A cold tomato and bread-based soup that originated in Andalucia, gazpacho bursts with summery flavors.

Traditionally pounded under a mortar and pestle to a creamy consistency, the soup's main ingredients are tomato, cucumber, bell peppers, onions, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and most importantly, stale bread. That last one is what gives it body and distinguishes it from being just a liquid salad.

Best in: a Seville tapas bar. 


vichyssoiseThese days it can be difficult to find vichyssoise -- the fat content is too high for the health-conscious.

Vichyssoise

Vichyssoise is an elegant cold soup made from potatoes, leeks, cream and chicken stock.

Possessing a beautiful vanilla color and a silken consistency owing to the heavy cream, it's served at a cold temperature, which keeps the taste light and refreshing.

Although French recipes with similar soups have been around for centuries, the late chef Louis Diat says that he first coined the name "vichyssoise" at The Ritz-Carlton New York in 1917. 

Best in: New York restaurants that claim the soup as the city's native invention. 

AcarajéAfrican influence.

Acarajé and vatapá

From the land of eternal summer, acarajé is Brazil's representative street food.

It comes from the country's northeastern regions, where cuisine is influenced by African culture.

Black-eyed peas are crushed and made into a ball, then deep fried, and formed into a bread-like base to hold vatapá, a creamy mix of shrimp, ground peanuts and fragrant coconut milk.

Best in: Salvador de Bahia during the Dia da Baiano festival. 

som tumOne bite of this flavor bomb will get your energy flowing.

Som tum

Thailand's green papaya salad combines briny fish sauce, tart lime juice, the kick of chili peppers and the freshness of unripe papaya.

It's all pounded under a mortar and pestle to form a delicious antidote against hot-weather lethargy.

Basically fat-free, som tum is a favorite for Thais trying to lose weight.

Best at: Somtum Der in Bangkok. 

Great summer meal in Korea: beer with a side of chicken. Or is that the other way around?

Korean fried chicken

A trendy food in South Korea that's caught on around the world, Korean fried chicken has won us over as a crunchy finger food for hot weather.

Koreans have perfected the holy fried chicken trinity: crispy, thin skin that still retains some gooey fat underneath, a strong spicy flavor and delicious moist meat. 

We recommend it with cold beer or soju and a side of pickles. 

Best at: 3 a.m. in Seoul's hip Hongdae district. 

bun chaHanoi is obsessed with char-grilled pork served with cold plain rice, vermicelli and a bouquet of fresh herbs and greens.

Bun Cha

Two summer favorites, barbecue meat and salad, come together perfectly in this dish.

The explosion of flavor comes from Vietnamese food's ubiquitous dipping sauce, nuoc mam pha, made of fish extract, sugar, chili, lemon juice, garlic and a generous dose of MSG.

Best in: Hanoi's Old Quarter. 


Live on brain freeze and sugar highs all season.

Halo-halo

The name of this Filipino dessert means "mix" and that's just what it is -- a jumble of sweet and colorful ingredients mixed together.

Halo-halo got official Anthony Bourdain approval when the intrepid eater tried Jollibee's version in Los Angeles on a recent episode of "Parts Unknown."

It can include anything from sweetened beans and chickpeas to preserved fruit and ice cream flavored with mango, taro, coconut or other summery fruit.

Best at: the Peninsula Manila.

36 hours on a Philippine bus


spam musubiThere are lots of ways to enjoy Spam.

Spam musubi

A slice of fried spam on top of sushi rice wrapped with nori is one of our favorite foods for summer because it reminds us of the beaches in Hawaii, the backdrop to all our fantasy summer vacations.

Best after: riding a wave on the beaches of the Big Island.


Bruschetta dates to the 15th century.

Bruschetta

An antipasto that can be eaten as a light summer dinner.

Not many better ways to showcase one of summer's best products: ripe tomatoes, scarlet and bursting with flavor.

Best at: your favorite neighborhood Italian restaurant.


chongqing hot potSpicy hotpot from Chongqing may be the last thing Westerners expect on a list of favorite foods for summer.

Chongqing hotpot

Chongqing is one of the hottest corners of China and residents believe that Chinese spicy food forces diners to sweat, thereby helping to expel heat and excess moisture to help cool the body.  

It's therefore natural that hotpot is a favorite summer food for locals -- the bubbling pot of spicy broth comes filled with scarlet chilies and heaps of mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns.  

Best at: night markets in Chongqing.


Fluffy and creamy, cotton ice should be served with dollops of syrup and fruit.

Shaved milk ice

Known as "cotton ice" in Chinese, this Taiwanese dessert has become popular across East Asia in the last few years.

Instead of plain crushed ice, this version is made with frozen condensed milk that's run through a shaving machine to create thin sheets of white milk ice that piles up in folds.

Best at: a Taipei night market


cevicheCeviche is one of South America's most popular seafood dishes.

Ceviche

This raw dish originated in Peru and is consumed throughout Latin America.

It's so fresh and so good, Peru has a national holiday in honor of the dish. 

Best at: Lima restaurants on the Day of Ceviche.


sobaJapanese noodle fans believe the best way to experience the texture of quality handmade soba noodles is to eat them cold.

Zaru Soba

To make Zaru Soba, buckwheat noodles are run through ice-cold water then drained on a bamboo sieve known as a "zaru."

The noodles are served directly on the zaru with a topping of shredded nori and a dipping sauce made of dashi, soy sauce, mirin and a dab of wasabi.

Best at: a Tokyo izakaya with a flask of cold sake.

watermelon rindSummer's ambassador: the noble watermelon.

Sliced watermelon rind

When it's hot outside, watermelon is one of the first foods we crave.

The rind is usually thrown out, but it can be saved to make pickles or dressed to make a salad -- the extra crunchy part of the melon makes an excellent juicy substitute for boring old lettuce.

It's also good stir-fried or stewed.

Best at: a Beijing restaurant during one of the city's legendary heatwaves.


affogatoSimply good.

Affogato

Affogato means "drowned" in Italian, and we really wouldn't mind being dunked into a sea of this Italian dessert.

A scoop of vanilla gelato is scooped into a cup and a shot of hot espresso is poured on top.

The result is a beautiful swirl of semi-solid ice cream and streaks of golden, bitter coffee.

Adding a shot of Amaretto or coffee liqueur ups the flavor.

Best in: Italian outdoor cafes.


satayBarbecued meat on sticks -- essential summer eating.

Satay

The national dish of Indonesia, satay can be made from any type of meat.

Turmeric is added to give satay its characteristic yellow color.

It's likely an adaptation of Indian kebabs, as it became popular after the influx of Indian immigrants in the 19th century.  

Best at: street stands in Java. 

peach cobblerSouthern-style cobbler with Georgia peaches on homemade biscuits -- perfect for summer nights.

Peach cobbler

Peach cobbler is a timeless, simple American dish that coats cooked peaches in a blanket of biscuit crust.

Summer gives rise to the best peach cobblers, as intense heat is needed for the plant to mature and produce a perfect, succulent sweet-tart peach. 

Best in: Georgia during the Georgia Peach Festival.


Don't be put off by the smell. There's a reason why durian is called the king of fruit.

Durian

This famously challenging fruit is the alleged king of all fruits in Asia.

Durian addicts who love the fruit's distinct rotten-garbage odor look forward to durian season every year -- the fruit can be grown only in tropical areas and is available between June and August.

Of 30 varieties of durian, the most expensive is mao shan wang, which sells for up to $10 per kilogram in Singapore.

Best had: fresh from a market in Singapore. 

mezeA spread of small dishes for a Mediterranean or Middle Eastern breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Meze

The meze plate is usually served as an appetizer platter throughout the Mediterranean and Middle East and has a little bit of everything.

It can be as simple as a piece of feta cheese with a few kalamata olives, or an impressive spread of hummus, tarama, cacik, baba ganoush, falafel, dolma and haloumi cheese.

All foods are served cold and go well with a light beer by the sea.

Best at: a seaside tavern in Santorini.


salmonBaked salmon -- one of the easiest dinners to make.

Salmon

We can fish for salmon all year round, but the biggest sport fishing season for wild salmon (most of what we eat is farmed) is in Alaska during summer and early fall months.

That's when wild salmon spawn and run back to rivers.

Once that fish is caught, there are a bewildering number of ways to prepare it for a summer dinner. Poached in champagne or grilled outdoors, it's all delicious. 

Best at: a beachside barbecue after a fishing trip in Alaska. 


injeraSalads are sometimes served on injera.

Injera

The national bread of Ethiopia, injera is a flatbread with a spongy texture and sour taste.

The acidity perks up appetites and the porous texture makes the bread a great carrier for sauces and wet salads.

Best in: an Ethiopian restaurant in Los Angeles, where there's a high concentration of Ethiopian diaspora. 

summer smorgasbordDidn't think it was a real dish, did you?

Summer smorgasbord 

The Scandinavian buffet has seasonal versions.

The summer smorgasbord retains all the classic items, such as grav lax, rye crispbread, pickled cucumbers, cheese, and the quintessential pickled herring, but hot foods are omitted.

Best in: Sweden where wild strawberries are usually added to the spread. 

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