Thursday, May 30, 2013

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Insider Guide: Best of Bogota

Posted: 30 May 2013 03:00 AM PDT

Colombia's capital is a world-class music city ... officially. Here's what else keeps it moving

We know, you probably don't know much about Bogota.

You might also be skeptical about claims that this city of an estimated 8 million people stands shoulder to shoulder with other storied South American capitals.

But with Colombia as a whole experiencing a tourist resurgence, it's time to get familiar with its vibrant capital city.

10 things to know before visiting Colombia

Often called the Athens of South America, the best of Bogota is a treasure of museums, art galleries, international fairs and cultural events. 

About 60% of the world's emeralds come from Colombia, and there are myriad opportunities to buy them in Bogota. 

Named the UNESCO City of Music for 2013, a slate of festivals throughout the year is celebrating everything from Beethoven to cumbia, the native Colombian music popular throughout South America.

Meanwhile, a growing gourmet scene has led to a boom in sophisticated eateries. 

And, of course, it practically rains fresh brewed Colombian coffee. 

So now you know -- Bogota isn't just a stopover en route to other South American cities, it's a destination on par with the best of them.

Here's how to fnd the best of Bogota.

Hotels

Luxury 

Luxury in the new financial district. JW Marriott Hotel Bogota

In the new financial district and near embassies and multinational offices, this is one of the most impressive hotels in Colombia. Comfortable, elegant rooms have all the luxurious touches expected of a five-star hotel. 

Best of Bogota hotel restaurant La Mina is modeled after the famous salt mines north of the city. For a posh way to relax -- or dizzy yourself with indecision -- the hotel bar menu features 73 types of martinis. 

JW Marriott Hotel Bogota, Calle 73 #8-60; +571 481 6000; from $359 per night

Mid-Range 

A fireplace makes for a cozy companion on a chilly Bogota evening. Charleston Casa Medina

In a colonial-era building, this 58-room boutique hotel was declared a Monument of Cultural Interest by the Colombian Ministry of Culture. Appointments like hand-carved wooden doors, stone walls and wrought-iron trim have been carefully restored to their original grandeur.

The hotel is located in Zona G, a best of Bogota gastronomic area not far from downtown, making getting around the city easy. 

All rooms include iHome sound systems, excellent décor and working chimneys in the suites. 

Charleston Casa Medina, Carrera 7 #69 A- 22; +57 1 217 0288; from $269 per night

 

Radisson lobby. Radisson Royal Bogota Hotel

Within walking distance of businesses, events, malls and restaurants, this hotel in the north of the city provides outstanding service and individualized attention.

Large, comfortable suites offer excellent views of Bogota. 

A delicious selection of international food is served at the two restaurants, and in the evening guests can relax with live music and drinks in a lounge near the lobby's majestic winding marble staircase. 

Radisson Royal Bogota Hotel, Calle 113 No. 7-65; +571 657 8700; from $219 per night

Budget 

La Fontana main entrance. Hotel Estelar La Fontana

Ivy-covered buildings, beautiful outdoor areas and attentive staff make this an easy best of Bogota pick.

La Fonatana's central courtyard radiates the feeling of a main square in a small colonial town, complete with a fountain and chapel. 

On Sundays that courtyard becomes a hive of cultural activity, with live music, local art, hands-on crafts events for children and a fair with 60 artisans and their crafts. 

Hotel Estelar La Fontana, Av.127 #15A-10; +571 615 4400; from $197 per night

 

Dining

The second floor lounge and bar for a pre-dinner drink. Harry Sasson

One of Colombia's most important chefs opened this exquisitely renovated 1914 National Heritage Site mansion offering Harry's original cuisine combining Colombian and international ingredients. 

Hidden away on the second floor, The Chef's Table is an intimate, reservation-only dining area where small parties can try Harry's personalized menu with wine pairings. 

Among the restaurant's famous patrons are Bill Clinton and Barack Obama. 

Harry Sasson, Carrera 9 #75-70; +571 347 7155; expensive; Monday-Saturday noon-midnight, Sunday noon-5 p.m.

 

Tastes as good as it looks. Matiz

Graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Peru, Chilean chef Nicolás Quintano draws upon his visual arts background to combine new cooking techniques employing impeccable presentation. 

A sophisticated dining experience in a best of Bogota area, Matiz offers gourmet dishes with complex and surprising flavors. The seven-course tasting menu is a unique experience tailored to the tastes of each eater and inspired by the creativity of the chef. 

The outdoor terrace with its waterfall and vertical gardens is ideal for day or night dining. Cost for the seven-course tasting menu without wine pairing is COP$120,000 ($66). 

Matiz, Calle 95 #11A-17; +571 520 2003; expensive; Monday- Saturday noon-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m., Sunday noon-5 p.m. 

 


Traditional dishes in a charming setting. Casa Vieja

Excellent, traditional Colombian dishes such as ajiaco and sobrebarriga have been circulating through this quaint dining anachronism for almost 50 years. 

The two-story colonial-style house has an outdoor terrace with a fireplace, a private dining area for parties up to 25 people and an adorable bar. Live music is played at lunchtime on weekdays. 

Casa Vieja, Calle 70 #6-23; +571 310 5247; moderate; Monday-Saturday noon-11 p.m., Sunday noon-5 p.m. 

 

Curry a la limonaria in a hurry. Wok

Easy on the wallet, but explosive in flavor, this local Bogota fusion chain draws its inspiration from the flavors of Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia and other Asian countries, serving it all with a Colombian twist. 

The focus here is on national ingredients, from moshiso leaves grown by descendants of Japanese immigrants to fish from the Colombian Pacific coast. 

Wok, several locations around the city; +571 622 5980; budget; Monday-Saturday noon-10:30 p.m.; Sunday noon-9 p.m.

 

Your cafe mocha results may differ. Juan Valdez

A cool climate mixed with Colombia's love of good tinto (black coffee) guarantees a coffee shop on nearly every corner in the city. Although much of the quality Colombian coffee is exported, Juan Valdez is proof that some does stay in the country. 

While some may balk at the inclusion of a corporate coffee dispensary, this famous symbol of Colombian coffee growers focuses on coffee education and the support of various national coffee producing areas. This is a popular place for impromptu business meetings or gatherings with friends. 

Juan Valdez, Carrera 11A #93 A-10; budget; open daily 10 a.m.-9 p.m.

 

Nightlife

English pub environment, Colombian style. Bogota Beer Company

Colombia's largest craft brewery serves beer made locally in small batches. The BBC's ambiance mimics that of an English pub, with decor that celebrates the golden years of Bogota's past. 

Delicious beer and good bar food mixed with Colombian enthusiasm make this a place worth return visits. 

Bogota Beer Company, Carrera 5 #71A-75; +571 742 9292; open daily 12:30 p.m.-1 a.m.

 

Equal parts Latin music museum and performance space. Gaira Cafe Cumbia House

Colombians love a party, so it's not hard to find a place with good music and lots of energy, but Gaira Cafe is special. 

Owned by famous Colombian singer Carlos Vives and family, this is as much a museum of Colombian music history as it is a leisure space, filled with instruments and memorabilia of outstanding Latin musicians. 

The house band is good and has the place packed on weekends.

The restaurant serves creative and delicious Colombian food and the full bar has inventive cocktails. 

Reservations on the weekend are essential to ensure a table and the cover is COP$20,000 ($11). Sundays at lunchtime Gaira presents a musical theater for children. 

Gaira Cafe Cumbia House, Carrera 13 #96-11; +571 746 2696; Tuesday to Saturday music starts after 8:30 p.m.; Sunday: 1-3:30 p.m., no cover

Competition-level partying. Andres Carne de Res

Just north of Bogota, the town of Chia is home to one of the best party environments in Colombia. Colorful, offbeat decoration include statues, bottle cap designs, memorabilia, neon signs, old mattresses and anything else you can imagine. 

The meat and appetizers are good, as is the service, but people come here to party. Nighttime shows are interactive and circus-like, designed to get everyone up and moving.

Andres Carne de Res, Calle 3 #11A-56, Chia; +571 863 7880; daily from noon-midnight

Spacious setting for a weekend rumba. Salto del Angel

On the northwest corner of Parque 93, this imposing five-level restaurant provides a hip place for a rumba (party), for enjoying a cocktail or shot of Colombian aguardiente and for dancing  to Latin music with the young and beautiful of Bogota.

Salto del Angel, Carrera 13 #93A-45; +571 654 5455; Monday-Sunday noon-2 a.m., Sunday noon-5 p.m.

 

Shopping

Andino

A sophisticated shopping mall that offers international and national brands, leather goods, souvenirs and jewelry, Centro Andino was the seed for development in Zona Rosa that transformed the neighborhood into a vibrant commercial destination. 

Vertical gardens and live music on select evenings add to the elegant surroundings, which are soon due to receive a fourth level and 22 additional stores. 

Andino, Carrera 11 #82-71; +571 621 3111; moderate to expensive; Monday–Sunday: 10 a.m.-9 p.m.

 

A mall with history. Hacienda de Santa Barbara

A 19th-century farmhouse converted into a mall, the Hacienda is a good place to get a dose of history while getting your shopping done. 

Several cafes serve Colombian coffee in cobblestone squares flanked by fountains, wood balconies and stone walkways. There are plenty of jewelry shops, high-end craft and textile stores and bars with live music, and the food court even has real restaurants. 

Hacienda de Santa Barbara, Carrera 7 #115-60; +571 612 0388; moderate to expensive; daily from 10 a.m.-8:30 p.m.

 

Attractions

The Muisca Raft, crafted a thousand years ago to represent the ceremony of the legend of El Dorado. Museo del Oro

You can dive into pre-Colombian culture, religion and art at this museum, home to the largest collection of pre-Colombian gold artifacts in the world. 

The permanent exhibition is in Spanish and English and additional information is available on English audio guides.

Museo del Oro, Carrera 6 and Calle 16; +571 343 2222; Tuesday-Saturday: 9 a.m.-6 p.m., Sundays and holidays: 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; admission COP $3,000 ($1.65)

 

Emerald showcase featuring Colombia's finest gems. International Emerald Museum

A visit to Bogota offers the chance to see emeralds from the world's most fertile emerald mines.

The museum includes a simulation mine, exhibition room with a variety of emeralds and a tempting jewelry shop. 

International Emerald Museum, Calle 16 #6-66; +571 286 4259; Monday-Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; admission COP$5,000 ($2.75)

 

Breathtaking view of the city from up here. Cerro de Monserrate

This mountaintop overlook founded in the early 1600s provides a best of Bogota view at above 10,000 feet. 

The panoramic view of the vast city below is worth the trip, but there are numerous souvenir shops through which to browse, and delicious French and Colombian restaurants to try.

The easiest way to get here is via short cable car ride. 

Cerro de Monserrate, Carrera 2 Este # 21-48; +571 284 5700; Monday–Saturday noon-11 p.m. COP$15,400 ($8.50), Sunday: 6:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. COP$9,000 ($5)

 

Artisan products at the Sunday fair. Usaquen

A tiny colonial town within the big metropolis, Usaquen is a district in which you'll discover small, quirky restaurants and bars with first-rate food and live music. 

A colorful arts and crafts fair is held on Sundays and holidays. Colombian musicians play the harp, saxophone or marimba on street corners, local artists sell paintings and craftsmen display jewelry, leather products, hats and bags crafted by indigenous tribes, and more. 

Calle 120 and Carrera 6; Sundays 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 

 

Approximately 190 miles of bike routes keep city dwellers in shape. Ciclovia

Bogota is home to the world's largest bicycling network, the Ciclovía, which covers close to 300 kilometers (185 miles).

This mostly flat city is good for biking, and on Sundays some major streets are blocked off to allow extra room for the bike route. 

A tour shows off some of the plazas, parks and historical monuments of Bogota.

The tour costs COP$35,000 ($19), bicycle included. 

Bogota Bike Tours; Carrera 3 # 12-72; +571 341 1027; tours depart at 10:30 a.m.

Guatavita

This little mountain town set aflame the imagination of explorers when they heard tales of the Muisca Indian tribal chief, El Dorado, who would ritually cover himself with gold dust and then bathe in Guatavita Lake. 

Later explorers used that name to describe the legendary "Lost City of Gold." This lake and quiet colonial town are among the best places to enjoy Colombian small town hospitality. 

75 kilometers (45 miles) northeast of Bogota; www.colombia.travel

11 coolest towns in the Philippines

Posted: 29 May 2013 03:01 PM PDT

As in, literally cool. The Philippines isn't just for bikinis -- cold weather attire is sometimes required

Framed by the equator and Tropic of Cancer, the Philippines is one sunshiney place.

Some locals cope with the heat by swarming the sugary beaches. Others turn air-conditioned malls into their second living room.

Then there are those who seek refuge in the upland barangays (villages), such as Bucari in Leon or Mantalongon in Dalaguete, where the elevation offsets the Philippines' equatorial warmth.

In its provincial boondocks, the Philippines has the ultimate paradox: the cool tropical town. 

Blissful temps, however, aren't the only things that make these towns cool. 

1. Baguio

Tourists check out Mansion House, summer residence of the Philippine president in the mountain town of Baguio City. Inspired by the British Raj, American colonists built a sanatorium in the chilly heights of Benguet Province in 1903 for heat-oppressed, homesick soldiers.

By 1909, the place was transformed into an American town, Baguio, with the help of Flatiron Building architect Daniel Burnham.

For a few summers, the American governor-general would move the seat of government here from humid Manila.

At 5,200 feet above sea level, Baguio enjoys low temperatures -- in 1961 it dropped to a recorded low of 43 F (6.3 C).

Even though the governors-general are long gone, the city remains a summer capital and vacation favorite, packed to the precipice, especially during Holy Week.

Tourists eat perennial peanut brittles and strawberries fresh from the nearby fields of La Trinidad.

Getting there: From Manila, an eight-hour bus ride is the standard way to reach Baguio (flights are rare, save for the odd charter). Buses leave from Manila's Caloocan, Cubao and Pasay residential areas.

More on CNN: 36 hours on a Philippine bus

2. Tagaytay

Just like the Hamptons. But with fishermen on bamboo rafts. Tagaytay is to Manila what the Hamptons are to New York City.

Just more than an hour from Manila, this city hosts second homes of the capital's well-off, who are drawn to the lower temps and authoritative views of Taal Volcano, the smallest active volcano in the world.

Imelda Marcos once invited Ronald and Nancy Reagan here to check out her "palace in the sky," a mansion roosting 2,300 feet above sea level. Today, moneyed locals live out only slightly less Imeldific retirements in the city's Swiss-style log homes.

Getting there: Tagaytay-bound buses travel along Manila's Taft Avenue near the MRT station or from the corner of Gil Puyat Avenue. If driving, follow the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX) toward Tagaytay via the Santa Rosa or Carmona exits. Or get on Mabini Superhighway after SLEX, exit to Tanauan, and follow the Talisay-Tagaytay route.

More on CNN: Insider guide: Best of Manila

3. Sagada

The cloud ocean, as seen from Kiltepan. Episcopal missionaries resided in Sagada in the 1900s, where they were pleased to discover the climate was cool enough to grow lemons.

These days the locals are predominantly Protestant, but they still grow the lemons in their yards. 

Jutting 5,300 feet above sea level, the so-called Philippine Shangri-La offers an ideal climate to grow a variety of fruit.

After dark, the town can turn wintry, reaching the low 50s F (10s C) in January and February. Kape alamid (civet poop coffee), one of many local delicacies, is a great way to warm up. 

Travelers can see just how cool it gets by hopping into the teeth-chattering waters of Sumaguing Cave or climbing to the top of Kiltepan, a vantage point offering views over an ocean of clouds.

Getting there: Regular buses and jeepneys depart Baguio's Dangwa terminal for Sagada, a five-hour ride. 

More on CNN: 13 most overplayed Filipino cover band songs

4. Don Salvador Benedicto

"Little Baguio" is used to describe pretty much any place in the Philippines with any coniferous vegetation whatsoever.

But the moniker fits Don Salvador Benedicto (DSB), a town 2,500 feet above sea level on Negros Island.

From the 60 F chill (16 C) to the pine-lined thoroughfares and random lion monuments, DSB is a micro-Baguio, sans crowds.

Fun experience for motorists: at Magnetic Hill along KM34 on SB13, the road's subtle incline creates the illusion of an invisible force tugging vehicles.

Getting there: From Bacolod, DSB is an hour trip by bus or van; it's a half-hour flight or a day's ferry ride from Manila. 

More on CNN: Philippines best beaches and islands

5. Canlaon City

Canlaon Volcano has erupted more than 20 times in the last 100 years, making it the most active volcano in the central Philippines. Canlaon City rivals Don Salvador Benedicto as Negros Island's summer capital.

At 2,600 feet above sea level at the foot of Canlaon Volcano, the city experiences a cool microclimate warmed up by hot springs that dot the terrain.

Numerous waterfalls, including some that have carved natural slides down the mountains, are a great way to experience the city's refreshing feel.

It's colder on the Saddle in the Sky, the ridge dividing the volcano's two craters.

Midsummer nights are dreamlike at the gargantuan balete tree, located in the city's Japanese-run agricultural estates. The famous tree, believed to be more than 1,300 years old, draws innumerable fireflies nightly.

Getting there: Scenic land routes lead to Canlaon City from Bacolod, Dumaguete and San Carlos.

6. Davao City

Davao City's Philippine Eagle Center gets you close to the country's national bird. Encompassing 244,000 hectares, Davao City on the island of Mindanao takes in towering mountains and dramatic green landscapes, as opposed to the heaven-scraping high-rises and concrete jungles that dominate other large Philippine cities.

The durian capital of the Philippines, it's one of three cities that share Mount Apo, the highest peak in the country.

You can walk a tough trail all the way to the top of Apo (9,692 feet/2,954 meters), but the hot and the restless can make faster, less grueling ascents in districts like Toril, Marilog and Calinan, whose mountain resorts offer untainted air, pine-canopied trails and invigorating falls.

Getting there: There are direct flights to Davao City from Manila, as well as from regional points like Singapore.

More on CNN: 7 wild adventures in the Philippines

7. Lantapan

Just waiting to be made into a sweater. Splayed on a high plateau, Bukidnon province is full of cool locales, such as the provincial capital Malaybalay (another "Little Baguio") and Dahilayan, a foggy barangay turned famous zipline resort.

The coldest of the cold is Lantapan, a breakaway district of Malaybalay on the slopes of the Kitanglad mountain range.

Lantapan is so cold that dew sometimes lingers as late as noon.

Spared by typhoons and seated on fertile earth at 4,000 feet above sea level, the cool climate has made Lantapan one of the Philippines' prolific vegetable baskets.

Mountaineers know Lantapan as the gateway to Dulang-Dulang, the country's second-highest point after Mount Apo.

Getting there: Buses ply the scenic highway between Cagayan de Oro and Malaybalay every day. Jeepneys bound for Lantapan are stationed at the Malaybalay public market. Manila-Cagayan de Oro flights run daily.

8. Marawi

In a predominantly Catholic, tropical country, Marawi is an oddity, as much for its largely Muslim populace as its climate. Mosques and torogans (royal houses) dot the city.

On the island of Mindanao, the city's 2,600-foot-high elevation ensures temperatures regularly plummet to at least 57 F (14 C).

Marawi's reputation as a dangerous town has stunted its tourism potential. A "zone of peace" is the local university, which at 1,000 hectares is virtually a city within a city, complete with a hotel.

Getting there: Head to Iligan by bus or jeepney from Cagayan de Oro. Marawi is a jeepney ride away, along the Amai Pakpak Avenue from Iligan.

9. Banaue

The rice terraces of Ifugao are more than 2,000 years old. Banaue is one of four towns in Ifugao province that make up the UNESCO-listed Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras

While these visually stunning monuments of ancient engineering are widespread in Asia, those in Ifugao trump most in terms of altitude and steepness. The highest ones tower around 4,900 feet above sea level.

The variety of rice grown here adapts to freezing temperatures.

Getting there: Overnight buses depart Manila for Banaue nightly. 

More on CNN: 50 foods that define the Philippines

10. Lake Sebu

Lake Sebu spills into seven waterfalls -- two are connected by a high zipline. With its flotilla of lilies and schools of tilapia fish, Lake Sebu on the island of Mindanao is full of postcard-caliber beauty.

Even better, the namesake town feels good on the skin, with temperatures seldom warmer than 77 F (25 C).

Sebu and two other lakes in the town empty down into seven waterfalls, two of which are connected by a high zipline. Acrophobic tourists can settle for canoe rides with the T'boli, a tribe of weavers.

Weather-induced shivers are eased by their warm hospitality, if not their traditional cloth (t'nalak) that's sold around town.

Getting there: Fly or sail to General Santos City, then take a bus to Koronadal. Ride another bus to Surallah, where vans and jeepneys can shuttle you to Lake Sebu.

11. Itbayat

Itbayat is the only low-altitude town on this list. But what it lacks in altitude it makes up for in latitude.

As the northernmost town in the Philippines, and thus the furthest from the equator, Itbayat experiences four seasons instead of two. It can out-winter Baguio between November and February, when temperatures crash down to 44 F (7 C).

Itbayat looks more like an English moor than a tropical island town. (English seafarers settled the area in the 17th century and called it Orange Isle.)

Ivatans, the native inhabitants of this frontier town, brave the cold winds with thermal garments called vakul and kanayi. Their houses are built with sturdy walls of coral bound by lime.

Getting there: Flights from Manila and Tuguegarao serve Basco, Itbayat's neighboring island, at least once a week. A four-hour boat ride or 10-minute flight links Itbayat and Basco.

More on CNN: Philippine jeepneys nearing end of colorful road?