Tuesday, July 23, 2013

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Insider Guide: Best of Vienna

Posted: 22 Jul 2013 09:00 AM PDT

Vienna is elegant, traditional and stately. But dig deeper and you'll find a Bohemian city that knows how to have a great time

The best of Vienna shows off a versatile city with more to offer than most people think.

Vienna's elegance and tradition find their greatest expression in the Inner City, or more formally, the First District.

Its three square kilometers are full of stunning architecture, highlighted by palaces, museums, theaters and churches.

Most tourists stay in this small area to see the best of Vienna, then leave town thinking that's all there is. 

Pity, those people miss out on seeing what Vienna (population 1.7 million) is really about by not exploring the outer districts.

There's the Naschmarkt (snack market) where Viennese go to eat.

There's the Seventh District with its huge shopping street and Bohemian flair, funky coffeehouses and local designers.

The Nineteenth District showcases a strong wine culture with vineyards inside the city limits.

After a day of touring the city, all-night partying awaits in pubs, bars, restaurants and dance clubs.

Print and go -- Our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of Vienna

Hotels

Luxury

Hotel Imperial 

Want the royal treatment? This is the place. You can live like a prince at the Hotel Imperial.

The building was originally constructed in 1863 as the Vienna residence of the Prince of Württemberg.

The stately palace on the magnificent Ring Boulevard was turned into the Hotel Imperial in 1873.

It's still a best of Vienna hotel pick.

Hotel Imperial, Kärntner Ring 16; +43 1 501 100; from €450 ($583) per night 


The Ritz-Carlton Vienna


Lobby Lounge Melounge at the Ritz. Opened in 2012, the Ritz-Carlton Vienna is the groups' first hotel in Austria.

It sits among stiff competition on the Ring Boulevard, which is dusted with one five-star hotel after another.

However, the rooftop terrace Atmosphere is a hotspot for the local Viennese to enjoy a spectacular view of the city. 

Ritz-Carlton Vienna, Schubertring 5-7; +43 1 311 88; from €550 ($700) per night


Hotel Bristol

Rooms with a view of the Opera House are more expensive, but worth it. Yet another five-star hotel decorating the Ring Boulevard, the Hotel Bristol has been around since 1892.

Its Prince of Wales suite is the largest in the country and famous because the Prince of Edward VIII once resided here.

The rest of the hotel can feel a bit tight for American guests, but cozy for Europeans, depending on your viewpoint.

Hotel Bristol, Kärntner Ring 1; +43 1 515160; from €230 ($303) per night


Mid-range

nH Hotel

Just what you need. Nothing more, nothing less. nH Hotel on Mariahilferstrasse supports the company's claim to being one of the top 20 chains in the world.

It follows the company's look with minimal style and clean lines.

The location is fantastic, right in the middle of Vienna's biggest shopping street with an underground connection almost at the front door.

Yet for all this, it still manages to remain quiet and tranquil.

Staff are friendly and check-in quick.

nH Hotel, Mariahilferstrasse 32-34 (via Lindeng. 9), 1070 Vienna; +43 1 52 17 20; from €90 ($116) per night


Budget

Pension Schönbrunn

Next to the imperial summer palace and a five-minute walk from an underground station, this clean budget hotel has an ideal location.

Rooms are spacious and there are a few that overlook a courtyard that offer quiet from the busy street outside.

Staff are friendly and speak good English.

The breakfast is basic and unvaried but provides good coffee.

Pension Schönbrunn, Schönbrunner Schloss Strasse 30; +43 1 815 50 27 0; from €70 ($90) per night
Dining

The dining scene in Vienna has exploded over the last few years. The city now offers cuisine from every part of the world ranging from trendy to traditional. 

Steirereck

One of the world's best restaurants. Considered one of the best restaurants in the world by prestigious Les Grandes Tables Du Monde, Steirereck offers painstakingly presented modern Austrian cuisine.

It uses fresh ingredients from the chef's own farm.

Its location in the middle of a park offers a soothing escape from the bustle of the city.

Open weekdays only. Reservations are a must for lunch and dinner.

Steirereck, Am Heumarkt 2a/im Stadtpark; +43 1 713 31 68; expensive

Taverne am Sachsengang

Get away from it al l... then get right back after dinner. Thirty minutes from the Vienna city center, Taverne am Sachsengang is an escape from the city -- and other tourists.

During summer months, guests sit outside and enjoy a view of the Danube. In winter, a fireplace gives the restaurant a cozy atmosphere.

The chef changes the menu according to season and specializes in fish, game and asparagus.

On the first Wednesday of every month, a special 10-course menu is offered that allows chefs to show off culinary creativity and excellence.

Taverne am Sachsengang,Schlosshoferstrasse 60, 2301 Gross Enzersdorf; +43 2 249 29 01; expensive 


Plachutta

No better place for the national dish.Plachutta is celebrated for its tafelspitz, the favored dish of Emperor Franz Josef. 

The best of Vienna boiled beef comes with a side of applesauce spiked with horseradish, which makes a sweet and spicy combination.

Plachutta,Wollzeile 38; +43 1 512 15 7743; expensive


Café Central

The food is as gorgeous as the interior. Café Central is a coffeehouse first, but serves traditional Austrian food for lunch.

During dinner the white linens come out to cover the marble tabletops.

The grand interior displays its palace setting to perfection, with a classical pianist serenading diners on select days.

Café Central,Ecke Herrengasse/Strauchgasse; +43 1 533 37 63 ext. 24; moderate


Bettel Student

Bettel Student is a rowdy pub that serves reasonably priced, consistently good Austrian food.

The upstairs seating area is usually quiet and not too crowded.

Bettel Student, Johannesgasse 12; +43 1 513 20 44; budget

Würstelstands

Quintessential Vienna.For those seeking the best of Vienna, eating at a würstelstand (sausage stand) is an integral part of the local eating experience.

There are many stands strewn throughout the city, but the best is in front of the Albertina Museum.

There are a variety of sausages with the option of a side of bread and an Austrian Ottakringer beer or even champagne.

Würstelstands, Albertinaplatz 1 


Coffeehouses  

Vienna coffeehouses are an institution. Social life revolves around them, as people have breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks, snacks, business meetings, celebrations and above all, coffee and cake. 

Demel

Decide quickly or they'll all be gone. Demel was the Imperial and Royal Court Confectionary Bakery to the former Austrian royal family.

Though the emperor is gone, Demel hangs on tight to its traditions.

It continues to produce exquisite cakes created by hand. You can check them out behind glass walls in the back.

Upstairs offers seating in pretty, parlor-like rooms. 

Demel, Kohlmarkt 14; +43 (1) 535 17 170

Sacher Café

Sacher Café makes the delicious sachertorte, which has been delivered to almost every country in the world.

The recipe is kept secret and the country's best bakers have tried, unsuccessfully, to recreate the iconic chocolate cake.

Sacher Café, Philharmonikerstrasse 4; +43 (0)1 51 456 0

Nightlife

Nightlife in Vienna isn't always easy to find even though the party week starts on Wednesday and on weekends goes all night long. 

Sofitel Hotel

It's not you. It's the ceiling. The Sofitel has a sophisticated bar that offers the absolute best view of the city.

The floor-to-ceiling glass windows lay a glittering Vienna at your feet.

The bar is well stocked.

The restaurant's Austrian-French fusion is so-so.

Unfortunately making reservations for the bar is no longer an option and standing in line to get to the top is the norm.

Sofitel Hotel, Praterstrasse 1; +43 (1) 906160; expensive


The 25 hours Hotel bar

The 25 hours Hotel bar has a laid-back atmosphere, good vibe and cheap drinks.

The best thing about the place is the large terrace.

A downside is that there can be a long line to get in; reservations aren't taken, so it's wait to get in or skip it.

The 25 hours Hotel bar, Lerchenfelder Strasse 1-3; +43 1 521 51 0; budget

Volksgarten-Pavillon

Volksgarten-Pavillon is where Viennese go to dance late into the night during the hot summer months.

The garden in the back is the highlight, with an outside bar and even a pool.

The music is a mix of house, disco and party hits.

On Fridays and Saturdays, if you show up before midnight, you might be the only one in the place.

Volksgarten-Pavillon, Burgring 1 (Heldenplatz); +43 1 532 42 41; mid-range


Albertina Passage

Vienna über-chic.Albertina Passage is where the über-chic of Vienna go to dance.

A major advantage is that there are a lot of seating nooks to sip your drinks in and get cozy with friends.

Albertina Passage, Passage Opernring/Operngasse; +43 1 512 08 13; expensive

 


Shopping

Kärntnerstrasse

The major shopping street in Vienna's First District, Kärntnerstrasse, has one flagship store lined up after the other.

The usual suspects, such as H&M and Zara, are present, but the German department store Peek & Cloppenburg dominates the scene by offering the best all-around shopping.

Kärntnerstrasse: Kärntner Str. 29; +43 1 8904888 0

Golden Quarter
Luxury brandocalypse.

The Golden Quarter is so-called due to the brand flagship stores lined up one after another in the First District on Kohlmarkt Street.

Sitting right behind the Imperial Palace, brands such as Chanel, Tiffany, Burberry, Ferragamo and Gucci among others feel right at home.

Chanel, Kohlmarkt 5; Tiffany, Kohlmarkt 8-10; Burberry, Kohlmarkt 2; Ferragamo,Kohlmarkt 7; Gucci, Kohlmarkt 5


Naschmarkt

Vienna's preeminent markt, er, market.Just outside the Inner City is the Naschmarkt.

You'll need to put up with crowds and walk at a slow pace to see all the exotic foods on display.

On Saturdays, the Naschmarkt expands to include Europe's largest flea market. It's fun to poke through all the dusty knickknacks even if many items are overpriced.

Closed on Sundays and public holidays.

Naschmarkt, Wienzeile between Kettenbrücke und the Secession; +43 1 546 3405 430


Peryd Shou Print Boutique

If it can be printed on something, Peryd Shou Print Boutique can do it. Peryd Shou Print Boutique believes that printing what you want on any surface is possible ... and in just 30 minutes.

The store is filled with bags, shirts, lampshades and even tea sets with unique prints from the imaginative to the bizarre.

Peryd Shou Print Boutique, Zollergasse 9-11; +43 1 522 46 70


The Hot Dog

From street graffiti to your back. The Hot Dog is the result of designer Mandarina Brausewetter's dream of producing streetwear to buy.

The trained graphic designer rose to fame in the graffiti scene.

Now she puts her designs on T-shirts, skirts and other articles of clothing that she makes in the back of her store.

The Hot Dog, Zollergasse 12; +43 1 236 8814


useabrand

With the tagline "fashion democracy," useabrand encourages its shoppers to design their own clothes.

Its website allows users to pick the color, material and cut. Once a month designs are voted on by users and the winner is then produced and sold online and in the useabrand store.

useabrand: Zollergasse 15; +43 1 699 11 47 8004


Attractions

The First District contains almost all of the best of Vienna's "must sees." It's small enough to walk everywhere. 

St. Stephen's Cathedral

Vienna's most photogenic cathedral.St. Stephen's Cathedral is the iconic image of Vienna and an excellent display of Gothic architecture. It dominates the center of the city.

Its colorful roof is covered with 230,000 tiles that form a mosaic of the double-headed eagle representing Austria's former imperial family, the Habsburgs.

Inside there's an elevator that goes to the top of the cathedral for nice views of the city.

St. Stephen's Cathedral,Stephansplatz, 1010 Vienna


The Hofburg Imperial Palace

The art of history.The Hofburg Imperial Palace has 20 different tours that inform visitors about Austrian history.

The most impressive is the Spanish Riding School, where white Lipizzaner horses perform to Strauss' "The Blue Danube." Tickets purchased in advance are necessary.

The Imperial Treasury boasts imperial crowns, jewels and a "unicorn" horn.

However, the best tour is the Imperial Apartments Sisi Museum, with a refreshing honesty about the past Austrian Empress. 

Hofburg Imperial Palace, Hofburg-Michaelerkuppel; daily 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m., July, August 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Guided tours for children: Saturday, Sunday, public holidays 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m.


Vienna Ring Boulevard

Lined with the most stunning architecture in the city, the 5,200-meter-long Vienna Ring Boulevard was created from 1860-1890 when the old city walls were torn down. 

Best of Vienna architecture includes the neo-classic Parliament, Gothic City Hall and State Opera, which received such criticism from the Viennese upon its opening that one of the head architects committed suicide. 

The Ring is lined with so many beautiful buildings that the city runs a Vienna Ring Tram. It starts at Schwedenplatz and informs riders of the highlights en route during its 23-minute circuit.

Vienna Ring Boulevard; daily, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (departure from Schwedenplatz) July and August, 10 a.m.–7 p.m.


Schönbrunn Palace

Rococo at its fullest. The exquisite baroque summer residence of the former imperial family, Schönbrunn Palace is located outside the First District.

A 30- or 60-minute tour gets you access to the living quarters of the ruling family, with excellent examples of Rococo interior design.

The large baroque garden is filled with wonders such as the world's oldest zoo and a public pool where the chic set cool off.

Schönbrunn Palace, Schönbrunner Schlosstrasse 47; +43 (1) 811 130; daily, 8:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m. 


The Giant Ferris Wheel

Worth the wait? Not for everybody. The Giant Ferris Wheel at the Prater Park is a landmark of Vienna.

Though the ride offers a bird's-eye view of the Danube, lines can be long and for many not worth the wait.

Photo opportunities from the ground looking up at the wheel are nice.

Giant Ferris Wheel, Prater 90, Riesenradplatz 1 

 


Vienna Balls

Did you remember to polish your shoes? Attending a ball is a best of Vienna experience.

The balls are also a great way to get into parts of buildings normally closed to the public to see dazzling displays of imperial interior design.

Despite the formal setting and strict dress code (men must wear tuxedos and women must wear floor-length gowns), balls are anything but stuffy, with long nights of dancing, live music and fun. 

Balls vary in price and experience. Of the 450 balls hosted in Vienna each year, four stand out.


The Vienna Philharmonic Ball

Take a bow. The Vienna Philharmonic Ball is the most elegant ball, with Viennese society attending, including the President of Austria.

The Vienna Philharmonic performs during the opening ceremony.

Vienna Philharmonic Ball, Bösendorferstrasse 12


The Viennese Coffeehouse Owners' Ball

The Viennese Coffeehouse Owners' Ball is one of the top five balls in Vienna with more than 5,000 guests in attendance.

It's hosted every year in the Imperial Palace, the Hofburg. The imperial ceremonial room where the emperor received guests is the most beautiful, with white marble and gold chandeliers.

Viennese Coffeehouse Owners' Ball, Hofburg-Michaelerkuppel Vienna

The Emperor's Ball –- Le Grand Bal

The Emperor's Ball –- Le Grand Bal is hosted at the Hofburg on New Year's Eve.

It's expensive and touristy, which doesn't make it the most interesting event to attend, but it does have its devotees and the New Year's Eve vibe is good.

Emperor's Ball, Hofburg-Michaelerkuppel Vienna


The Opera Ball

Vienna's grandest spectacle. And everyone knows it. The Opera Ball is the most famous Vienna ball, with its big show of celebrities.

The ball gets mixed reviews. Some find the grand experience transcendent; others say it comes off tacky due to the media circus around it.

Opera Ball, Opernring 2

More information about Vienna's ball season can be found at events.wien.info

More on CNN: Europe's finest spas


Monday, July 22, 2013

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Best bachelor party destinations

Posted: 21 Jul 2013 11:00 PM PDT

We've done the best man's job for him. Thank us after the party
roulette table

Call it a celebration or a commiseration, the art of throwing a stag party is in the itinerary -- of hitting just the right combination of bars, clubbing, hangover food, daytime fun and down time. 

For a best man with the big task on his hands, the destinations on this list practically do all the work for him.

More time to work on that speech. 

Las Vegas

It's the nightclub that teaches other nightclubs how to party: The Marquee in Vegas hosts the Annual Nightclub & Bar Convention and Trade Show. Obviously it's on the list. But sorting through the options and planning the ultimate Vegas weekend can get as complicated as one of Danny Ocean's heists.

One night should be reserved for the Marquee at The Cosmopolitan, the wildest, most overwhelming, over-stimulating and highest-grossing nightclub in Vegas since it opened in 2010.

Pure and Chateau follow close behind.

As for the best hotel, it's hard to go wrong with the location used for "The Hangover." Caesar's Palace provides spectacular packages.

Then again, Prince Harry chose to party at the Wynn while he was in town, with controversial results.

More on CNN: World's best nightlife cities

Sites like vegashotspots and bachelorvegas provide "Hangover packages" that lay out everything from exotic car rentals to bottle service to gentlemen's clubs.

For a more unusual experience than you'll get from a typical night of clubbing, Machine Guns Vegas provides a bachelor party package that begins with heavy artillery and ends at Sapphire, a 70,000-square-foot adult entertainment club.

New Orleans

New Orleans partyWhen else would a group of guys have the excuse to look this moronic? A New Orleans bash doesn't require extensive planning -- all the fun takes place on Bourbon Street, a 13-block stretch where every weekend is Mardi Gras.

Staples in the original Sin City include The Old Absinthe House, Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop (considered by many to be the oldest continually occupied bar in the United States) and Pat O'Brien's, which purportedly serves more alcohol than any other bar in the world.

When you go out, bring what locals call a go-cup. It's not just legal to transfer your alcoholic beverages into a non-glass receptacle when bar hopping -- it's encouraged.

Paradise Island, Bahamas

cain at the cove poolUltimate bach James Bond has been to Paradise Island three times, while filming "Dr. No," "Thunderball" and "Casino Royale." The name pretty much says it all.

Formerly known as Hog Island, until it was bought by A&P Supermarket Heir Huntington Hartford in 1959, the island was rechristened by the billionaire businessman and reborn as bachelor heaven.

The recommended stay is the Atlantis, the megaresort that dominates the island. Or, more specifically, the Cove, an adults-only resort within the resort.

More on CNN: World's 50 best beach bars

The resort has all-night casinos, a multitude of bars and the Aura nightclub.

Daytime activities include the Cain ultra-pool (a 9,000-square-foot, adults-only pool with separate, elevated Infinity pools) and deep-sea fishing.

Munich

Obviously, these Aussies had the same bright idea. For a bachelor whose date with destiny (or even Destiny from the club) looms in the fall, the world capital of beer during Oktoberfest (September 21-October 6, 2013) is a no-brainer.

The Beer & Brewery walking tour includes trips to the Paulaner brewery, the Schneider Weiss Brauhuass and Hofbrauhaus.

Of the 200 biergartens (beer gardens) to choose from in the city, the oldest, and perhaps the best, is Beer Garden Augustiner Keller.

Bangkok

full moon party bangkokThere's a reason Bangkok was chosen as the setting for "The Hangover Part II." It's no secret that the wildest mancation in the eastern hemisphere can be found in Bangkok.

But while for some Bangkok still lumbers under the stigma of the soulless sleaze available at places like Soi Cowboy, Nana Plaza or Patpong Road, in the past decade the Thai capital has developed a range and quality of nightlife rarely surpassed.

Key things to keep in mind Bangkok: you need a decent HQ, transport, team bonding and most importantly, a plan.

The city is big. Organization is critical. No man gets left behind.

The perfect HQ is any of the massive suites available at most of the good hotels.

Lebua's three-bedroom Hangover Suite serves the perfect opening and closing salvo in a night to remember. Created in honor of "The Hangover Part II," in which key scenes were filmed at the hotel, the suite is full of bachelor party essentials such as a foosball table, ping pong table and fully stocked bar. (Lebua, State Tower, 1055 Silom Road, Bangkok; +66 02 624 9999; Hangover Suite from $1,000 per night)

With the team gathered and refreshed, it's time to bond.

Renting a van for your Bangkok bachelor party is a must. Your hotel can help.

Day options include go-carting, golf or even fishing.

The best option for the latter is Bungsamran Fishing Park, where staff bring drinks and food, will bait your line and even pull in the fish for you. Sounds easy, but the catches are massive and a lot of hard work.

The evening knows few bounds. 

If you want to hop between a wide range of bars, Sukhumvit soi 11 (BTS: Nana station) is one of the best Bangkok strips to hit.

There's apothecary-themed Apoteka to start the night, nightclub mainstay Q Bar -- which has its own separate absinthe bar out back called Le Derriere -– and newcomer Levels, which features house-heavy DJs every night.

For more Bangkok nightlife options, CNN's list of the best new bars to hit Bangkok in recent months has you covered. 

Saturday, July 20, 2013

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10 things that make Ethiopia extraordinary

Posted: 19 Jul 2013 03:00 PM PDT

Fairy tale castles, superb coffee and the Ark of the Covenant (OK, possibly) are just some of the unexpected attractions of this African country
Ethiopian vista

What sets Ethiopia apart from its African neighbors?

The excellent coffee?

The fact that it was never colonized?

Or that Rastafarians regard it as their spiritual home?

Or could it be the smooth, well-maintained roads, so rare on the continent, that make exploring the country by car such a joy?

After a 1,430-kilometer drive through Ethiopia's Northern Circuit -- up mountains, through Martian-like landscapes, into lost kingdoms of yore -- we found 10 crucial things that define the country.

1. The best Italian restaurant in the world (according to Bob Geldof, anyway)

The buzzing bedlam of Mahatma Gandhi Street in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia's capital, is the setting for Castelli's -- arguably the best Italian restaurant this side of Bologna.

An Italian soldier, Francesco Castelli, founded the modest-looking eatery at the end of WWII. Since then it's gained a global profile thanks to endorsement from celebrity diners such as Bob Geldof, Bono and Brad and Angelina.

But, high-profile praise aside, it's the food that makes Castelli's worth a visit before setting off from Addis into the Ethiopian wilds.

Ristorante Castelli, Mahatma Gandhi Street, Addis Ababa; +251 1 563 580, +251 1 571 757

2. Italian-style coffee

Like great Italian food, coffee is one of the legacies of the Italian occupation of Ethiopia during WWII.

While Mussolini's men proved inept colonists (the Allies defeated them in 1943), their tenure in the country did at least ensure that an Italian-style espresso machine was installed in most cafes, restaurants and -- weary travelers will be pleased to know -- even dilapidated roadside shacks.

Ethiopians love their coffee and take pride in the fact that the plant's invigorating effects were first discovered in the Oromia region of the country (see the 2006 documentary Black Gold).

3. Chinese roads

Ethiopian roadMade in China. Actually made by China. The country is investing hundreds of millions of dollars in Ethiopia's infrastructure. Aside from coffee and pasta, Ethiopia excels in roads.

Other African nations have roads -- it's just that few are a patch with those in Ethiopia.

The quality tarmac comes courtesy of huge Chinese investment -- in 2009, it was estimated that China had poured $900 million into Ethiopia's infrastructure, a figure that's since increased exponentially.

Anyone who's driven into Ethiopia from Kenya, via the perilous Marsabit route (fraught with bumps, brigands and bandits) will attest what a difference a nice road makes.

Ethiopia's incredible mountain-top highway vistas don't hurt, either.

Zanzibar: A very cultural beach holiday

4. Tanks ... lots of them

Ethiopia tankSwords into ploughshares ... or tanks into unusual climbing frames for kids, in the case of Ethiopia. Don't worry: unless you get horribly lost and venture into Somalia, the tanks you'll see along the roadside are burned-out remnants of the Eritrean-Ethiopian War (1998-2000).

Seen throughout the country, these defunct war machines stand as forbidding reminders of Ethiopia's troubled past -- and double as fun climbing frames for local children. (Next door Eritrea is the place to see if you really dig disused materiel.)

5. Underground churches

LalibelaLalibela's monolithic churches still impress nine centuries later. Ethiopia sags under the weight of its cultural treasures, such as those at the UNESCO World Heritage site Lalibela.

In the late 12th century, Gebre Mesqel Lalibela had 13 churches -- Ethiopia is one of the oldest Christian nations -- carved out of solid rock.

His achievement (meaning that of his stonemasons and slaves) is still incredibly impressive nine centuries on.

Lalibela -- the first major point of interest on the Northern Circuit -- is a 10-hour journey from Addis Ababa.

Head north up Route 1, passing through Debre Birhan, Kombolcha and Dessie. At Weldiya, leave the highway and follow the road west to Gashena.

At Gashena, take the road north to Lalibela.

6. Martian landscapes

Danakil Depression"The cruelest place on Earth?" Pretty, though. Located in the tumultuous Afar region on the Eritrean border, the Danakil Depression is strewn with volcanoes and salt lakes and is one of the hottest places on the planet.

So why visit what National Geographic calls "the cruelest place on Earth?"

Well, this also happens to be one of the most arresting natural sights you'll see in Africa -- or anywhere else.

With an unforgiving landscape that's difficult to navigate, it's also one of the few places in Ethiopia where you shouldn't travel alone: most people go with an escort or in a convoy.

Tours can be arranged in Abbis. Reputable agency Ethiopia Travel and Tours (info@ethiotravelandtours.com) charges around $550 for a four-day trip.

7. Men-only monasteries

Debre DamoDebre Damo houses some of the most ancient Christian scripture in Africa. Gentlemen: you'll have to describe it to the ladies. Just off the main road between Lalibela and Aksum lies Debre Damo, a monastery that can be reached only by scrambling up a 15-meter-high cliff face.

There is, however, a discriminatory door policy: only men are permitted to make the perilous ascent to the monastery.

That rule doesn't apply just to female humans -- even livestock of the fairer sex apparently risk distracting the monks from holy contemplation.

Gents who brave the climb can enjoy stunning vistas, as well as a chance to eye some of the most ancient Christian scripture in Africa.

Be warned that unofficial "guides" will try to extort inflated fees for their services before letting you back down the cliff -- negotiate the charge beforehand.

It's practical to visit Debre Damo en route to Aksum.

The monastery lies just outside the small town of Bizet, 12 hours' drive north of Addis and about 50 kilometers west of Adigrat, the last stop on Route 1 before turning west on to Route 15.

Follow the road to Bizet and keep a keen eye out for the turn to Debre Damo on the right.

25 of Africa's best beaches

8. The Ark of the Covenant

AksumFinal resting place of the Ark of the Covenant? Nice if you could get past the tracksuit guys and see it. The Lost Ark? In Ethiopia?

Someone should have told Indiana Jones that before he set off for Cairo.

According to enthusiastic local sources, the historic town of Aksum -- focal point of the Aksumite Empire (AD 100-940) -- is the resting place of the Ark of the Covenant.

The catch? No one's actually allowed to see it.

The closest you can get is by paying a few dollars to one of the tracksuit-clad men posturing as guards outside the temple where the ark is purportedly kept.

Luckily, Aksum is home to plenty of ancient tombs and other monuments, which makes the drive to one of Ethiopia's northernmost towns worthwhile -- ark or not.

Though Aksum can be reached by a small road west of Mek'ele, people wanting to visit Debre Damo monastery as well should take Route 1, turning west on to Route 15 at Adigrat, and join Route 3 at Adwa.

9. Roadside Rastafarians

Rasta child, EthiopiaRastafarian kids in Ethiopia, regarded as the movement's spiritual home. The Rastafari movement is most often associated with Jamaica, but it was the Ethiopian Haile Selassie who inspired the religion.

Ethiopians are proud of their former ruler's supposed status as Jesus incarnate and some have adopted the dress and lifestyle habits of their Jamaican counterparts -- which makes meeting them in the Simien Mountains all the more bizarre.

The roadside Rastas you're likely to meet are a friendly bunch, who'll happily talk you through points of interest in the area (often relating to high cliffs off which Italian soldiers were thrown), as well as hawking red, green and yellow hats and accessories.

10. A fairy tale kingdom

Ethiopian castleEthiopian fairy tale: an imperial castle in Gondar. British and Dutch colonial buildings attract the most architectural attention in east Africa, but Ethiopia again stands out as the only country on the continent with its own fairy tale castles.

Aside from a few eye-catching art deco buildings left over from the Italian occupation, the castles of Fasilides, Iyasu and Mentwab, in the former imperial capital of Gondar, are the structures that stay in the mind.

Gondar is a five-hour drive southwest of Aksum. Follow Route 3 through the Simien Mountains.

A good stopping point is Debark, with its mountain vistas.

What defines Ethiopia to you? Let us know in the comments section.