Monday, August 12, 2013

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Typhoon Labuyo continues to slam Philippines travel

Posted: 12 Aug 2013 02:20 AM PDT

All kinds of travel affected as 20 provinces remain under storm signal

The largest typhoon to hit the Philippines this year is wreaking havoc on transportation and travel.

Travel by air, land and sea have been affected as Typhoon Labuyo (international code name Utor) continues, despite reports that its strength is weakening.

The National Disaster Risk Reduction and Management Council said that more than 8,000 travelers and commuters were stranded because of the storm, many having to sleep in terminals and ports.

Local media outlet GMA News reported that more than eight domestic flights on Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines Express were canceled as of this morning.

The storm blocked the single road leading to Casiguran in northern Aurora by causing landslides, said GMA News.

Flooding also halted bus trips to the Cagayan-Isabela area in Cagayan Valley.

As of 5 p.m. today, the Phillippine Atmospheric Geophysical and Astronomical Administration (PAGASA) announced that seven provinces are under the current highest storm signal of no. 2, while 13 provinces are under storm signal no. 1.

The maximum sustained winds are now 150 kilometers per hour near the center, with gusts up to 185 kilometers per hour, according to the PAGASA announcement.

The Metro Rail Transit has continued to operate throughout the storm.

Approximately 20 typhoons and storms hit the Philippines each year. 

Labuyo is expected to exit the Philippines later today.

Gallery: 40 most beautiful places in South Korea

Posted: 11 Aug 2013 03:00 PM PDT

With these incredible travel spots throughout South Korea looking the way they do, it's kind of hard to understand why a whopping one-fifth of the country's population lives on top of each other in Seoul.

As glitzy and glittering as it is, the capital, after all, takes up less than one percent of the entire country.

To get this list of beautiful places, we asked veteran travel photographers who know the country from tip to spine to tail and who've been photographing Korean landscapes and people for decades.

Photographers Seo Heun Kang, Kim Bong-Sun and Im​ Jay-cheon shared their favorite spots around Korea. Three or four appeared in our article 50 beautiful places to visit in Korea, but we haven't covered most of these places before.

Which is your favorite photo? Which South Korean destination do you most want to visit? Let us know in the comments section. ​​

40. Sareung

Sareung is named for a queen's lifetime of longing for her murdered king.​This UNESCO World Heritage site is actually the royal tomb of Queen Jeongsun (1440-1521), the queen of the Joseon Dynasty's sixth king, Danjong, who ruled for three short years before being forced to abdicate the throne by a power-hungry uncle.

"This place houses one of the most beautifully kept pine tree forests in the Seoul vicinity, where the prettiest pine trees are grown and sent to the palace gardens or other royal tombs," says photographer Seo Heun Kang, who took this photo.

Access to the tomb area is restricted to those with "the purpose of academic research and field investigation," reporters and guests with "the purpose of education and worship."

Prior appointments must be made through the management office at +82 31 573 8124.

Sareung-ri Jingeon-eup Namyangju Gyeonggi Province

39. Sambuyeon Falls

Here be dragons.​Legend has it that a dragon once flew out from this 20-meter-high waterfall -- that's why the name of the nearby village Yonghwadong begins with the character for dragon.

"This is one of the eight sights of Cheorwon, and is a sight to see especially after rain when the falls swell," says photographer Seo.

Jeong Seon, one of the most celebrated artists from the Joseon Dynasty, fell in love with this waterfall and painted it immediately.

Sincheorwon-si Galmal-eup, Gangwon Province

38. Namhansanseong Fortress

Protecting the capital.

Located on Mt. Namhan, this 12-kilometer-long earthen fortress was originally built 2,000 years ago and reconstructed in 1621.

It was one of the four big fortresses protecting the country's capital, then called Hanyang.

"It's a great place for day excursions, as there are many hiking trails," says Seo.

Sanseong-ri Jungbu-myeon Gwangju-si Gyeonggi Province

37. Seonjeongneung

Raised stones leading to the gates are meant for the dead king, the lower stones on either side are for the living.​This UNESCO World Heritage Site comprises royal tombs of Joseon's ninth King Seongjong, his queen Jeonghyeon and son King Jungjon.

Located among a "forest of skyscrapers" in Gangnam, Seoul, the tombs are open to visitors daily (excluding Mondays) for a fee of less than $1.

Seolleung-ro 100-gil, Gangnam-gu

36. Gobungun, Changyeong

Call us morbid, but these are beautiful tombs.​These ancient tombs date to the Gaya confederacy of the 5th and 6th centuries.

There are approximately 180 tombs in the area, which are close to main roads and easy to access.

Changnyeong-eup, South Gyeongsang Province

35. Anapji Pond

Lighting at night makes it even more stunning than it is during the day.​Built in the year 674 during the Silla Dynasty, this beautiful circular pond was originally constructed inside a fortress that was later destroyed.

State celebrations were held here and it's also where Silla's most important guests were received.

Inwangdong, Gyeongju-si, North Gyeongsang Province

 

34.  Geunjeongjeon, Gyeongbokgung

Built in 1395, Throne Hall is perhaps the most iconic building of the Joseon Dynasty, which lasted from 1392 to 1897.​Important state affairs were once conducted in the Geunjeongjeon, the Throne Hall of Gyeongbokgung Palace.

The palace hosts a changing of the guard ceremony every day, and occasionally hosts ceremonies for major events of national importance.

The welcome ceremony depicted in this photo was held in honor of the historic return of Korean royal books that were looted by the French military 145 years before.

Gyeongbokgung, Seojong-ro 1, Jongno-gu, Seoul

33. Changgyeonggung

The queens' palace.​Typically used as the residential palace for queens and concubines of the Joseon dynasty, Changyeonggung was built in 1483 by King Sejong, who invented the Korean alphabet, for his father King Taejong.

"The most important buildings in the palace face east, so it is best to visit in the morning," says Seo.

Admission is ₩10,000 ($9) and the same ticket can be used at Seoul's four palaces, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, as well as the Jongmyo shrine, within one month.

185, Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul

32. Inwangsan

The view from Inwangsan includes the palaces, N Seoul tower and the Blue House, residence of the Korean president.This 338-meter-high mountain on the outskirts of Seoul offers probably the best view of the city.

Known for its hiking trails, the mountain has a number of castles that were built to protect the city from foreign invasions.

San 3-1, Muak-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

31. Jongmyo Shrine

Yet another UNESCO Heritage Site in Seoul. Built by the first king of the Joseon Dynasty Lee Seong Gye, the Jongmyo Shrine is where kings came to worship and conduct memorial services.

Jongmyo Jaerye memorial service is reenacted the first Sunday each May and incorporates music and dance from five centuries ago.

157 Jongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul

30. Gochang Dolmen site

The Stonehendge of Korea. ​More than 400 dolmen (stone graves built during the prehistoric era) can be found at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, making it one of the most concentrated dolmen sites in Korea (there are approximately 30,000 such stone graves throughout the country).

There's a dolmen museum on site and a train tour departs from the museum every hour from 10:30 a.m.

Asan-myeon, Gochang-gun, North Jeolla Province

29. Wanggungri

Iksan was the capital of Baekje, one of ancient Korea's Three Kingdoms.  

Iksan is home to numerous historic sites, including a palace site and many temples and fortresses.

The five-story pagoda at Wanggungri in Iksan is an iconic example of the refined architecture during the Baekje period (18 BCE-660 CE).

Wanggungmyeon, Iksan-si, North Jeolla Province

28. Seoul Seonggwak Fortress Wall

seoul seonggwakSeoul just wanted to be left alone. ​The 18.2-kilometer-long stone wall was erected during the Joseon Dynasty to protect the capital.

A scenic walking tour goes from Dongdaemun (home of late-night trendy shopping centers) to Naksan Mountain, stopping by the Seoul Seonggwak Fortress Wall then Naksan's park and museum, and comes to an end at Ehwajang, where Korea's first president, Syngman Rhee, once lived.

1 Ewha-dong Jongno-gu Seoul

27. Gangneung Anbandeok-gil

​​​​Korea's east coast destination.Thanks to its close proximity to Seoul (approximately three hours by express bus), Gangneung is one of the most popular year-round destinations in the country for domestic tourists.

The city is known for its mountains and beaches, and also has a wealth of cultural sites including a Confucian school, museums and centuries-old hanok (traditional Korean architecture) estates.

Daegiri, Wangsangmyeon, Gangneung-si, Gangwon Province

26. Gwangalli

At night, Gwangan Bridge, Korea's longest suspension bridge, is one of Busan's iconic sights.​Along with Haeundae, Gwangalli is one of Busan's iconic beaches. It can get ridiculously crowded during  summer, but has a laid-back vibe during off seasons.

Younger crowds like to come and drink in small groups on the beach.

192-20 Gwangan-2-dong, Suyeong-gu, Busan

25. Soyang Lake

soyangho​Massive Soyang Lake's nickname among locals is is "sea on land."​Soyang Lake owes its existence to Soyang Dam, Asia's largest rock-fill dam.

A hotspot for ice-fishing, the lake is known for its tranquility and picture-postcard scenery. Cheongpyeongsa Temple, which dates to the Goryeo Dynasty, is nearby, and hiking trails to Obongsan Mountain are popular with locals on weekends.

Buksan-myeon, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon Province

24. Upo Wetlands

It's best to visit in the morning or early evening to catch the prettiest views of rain, fog and fireflies. ​As the largest natural swamps in Korea, these wetlands are home to more than 1,000 species and span 5,550 square kilometers.

The wetlands have been protected since 1998, when they became part of the Ramsar List of Wetlands of International Importance.

220, Uponeup-gil, Yueo-myeon, Changryeung-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do

23.Hapcheon daraknon

In the autumn, the terraced rice paddies turn golden brown. ​While Hapcheon is known for its beautiful mountains and temples (Haeinsa is one of Korea's three "jewel temples" and a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the terraced rice paddy fields of the area are also a wonderful sight.

"The rice paddies are the most striking on August afternoons, when they glow bright green," says photographer Im Jay-cheon. 

Thin and long terraced rice paddy fields like these are called "daraknon," a North Korean term still used in the South.

Hapcheon-eup, Hapcheon-gun, South Gyeongsang Province

22. Buseoksa

buseoksaThe calligraphy on the temple's signboard was written by Korea's first president. ​The 108 steps between Cheonwang gate and Anyang gate at Buseoksa Temple represent the number of cycles it takes for redemption from agony and evil.

Built in 676 during the Silla Dynasty, Buseoksa Temple is the oldest wooden building still standing in Korea.

"Every evening at 6 p.m. they ring the bell 33 times," says photographer Im. "It's a sound that touches your heart and soaks into the land."

345, Buseoksa-ro, Buseok-myeon, Yeongju-si, North Gyeongsang Province

21. Geumsan Boriam Temple

boriamA temple on "treasure island." ​If you pray at Geumsan Boriam Temple, your prayers will be answered -- so people say, anyway.

Like most temples in Korea, Geumsan Boriam Temple offers a temple stay program where visitors can spend the night and immerse themselves in the Buddhist way of eating, sleeping and meditation.

48 Bukji-ri, Buseok-myeon, Yeongju-si, North Gyeongsang Province

20. Dolsan Bridge

The longest cable-stayed bridge in Korea has become a local tourist attraction in itself due to the dramatic way it's lit up at night.

 

Nearby attractions include a temple, a replica of Korea's most famous attack ship, "Geobukseon," and a raw fish town.

Dolsan-eup, Yeosu-si, South Jeolla Province

19. Andong Hahoe Village

Queen Elizabeth paid a visit in 1999.​Korea's most iconic folk village has long been a birthplace for scholars and nobles of the Ryu family.

Visitors can do a hanok stay, sleeping in a traditional Korean house and experiencing how Korean nobles lived for hundreds of years.

40, Jongga-gil, Puncheon-myeon, Andong-si, North Gyeongsang Province

18. Ojakgyo

Setting for an epic love story. ​Meaning "crow and magpie bridge," Ojakgyo is the setting for Korea's most famous love story, in which a couple is forced to live on either side of the Milky Way, only to be reunited when magpies form a bridge.

Legend has it that real-life couples who cross this bridge together will love each other for eternity and have healthy children.

Cheongeo-dong Namwon-si North Jeolla Province

17. Biyangdo

The legend of the flying island. ​This tiny island 15 minutes by boat from Jeju Island's Hallim Port is known for its summer fishing. 

Legend has it that this tiny island flew to its current spot from China 1,000 years ago. 

Hallim-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju Island

16. Samhwasa

Where poems come from. Poets and painters have sought out Samhwasa Temple for centuries for its incredible scenery.

The west peak of Dutasan Mountain, where the temple is located, is said to look like a phoenix and a crane, while the east peak has the shape of a tiger and a dragon.

584 Mureung-ro, Donghae-si, Gangwon Province

15. Hamdeok

hamdeokFields of rapeseed flowers cover the landscape in summer. ​Hamdeok is a small seaside village located 30 minutes east of Jeju Airport.

As beautiful as they are, the fields of rapeseed flowers play second fiddle to Hamdeok's sapphire beach, a popular kayaking destination with calm waters.

Hamdeok-ri, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-do, Jeju-si, Jeju Island

14. Hyeupjae Beach

A perfect day at a perfect beach. ​Ask any Korean travel writer about which beach they think is the most beautiful in the country and nine times out of 10, their response will be Hyeupjae Beach.

OK, we lied. It's 10 times out of 10. 

2497-1 Hyeopjae-ri, Hallim-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju Island

13. Marado

It takes about three hours to see the whole island.​While this island is relatively difficult to reach -- there's a ferry that leaves only a handful of times each day from the south coast, at Moseulpo Harbor --  the trip is worth it for the views.

Tiny sculptures of famous lighthouses around the world stand in front of the island's lighthouse.

There's a jajangmyeon (black noodles) shop that delivers to anywhere on the island.

Mara-ri, Daejeong-eup, Seogwipo-si

12. Yonghwa Beach

This Gangwon Province city is known for its seafood.This Samcheok city beach has a fragrant pine forest and a stream running alongside it, making for a shaded happy holiday with the choice of playing in seawater or freshwater.

Camping sites cost only ₩10,000 ($9) per night.

Yonghwahaebyeon-gil, Geundeok-myeon, Samcheok-si, Gangwon

11. Sehwa-ri

Seagulls flock to this small white beach, especially in the winter.​"The road from Sehwa-ri to Seongsaneup, home of fabulous sunsets, is beloved by the locals for its pretty scenery," says photographer Kim Bong-sun.

The nearby Sehwajang market sells fresh seafood.

Gujwa-eup Jeju-si Jeju Island

10. Songaksan

Heaven for geologists. Not bad for the rest of us, either. ​Known for its 99 peaks, this Jeju volcanic mountain has a crater spanning 500 meters in diameter that's a sight to see, apart from all the beautiful islands in the distance.

It takes only an hour to walk to the highest peak, which is 104 meters above sea level.

Sangmo-ri, Daejeong-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju Island

9. Udo

The cow-shaped island, not the German metal band.​Another satellite island off Jeju, Udo has a wicked black pork barbecue that's worth the journey.

The island is a 15-minute boat ride from Seongsan Harbor, about an hour's drive from Jeju Airport.

Udo-myeon, Jeju-si

8. Yongduam

"Dragon head rock." See it?​Yongduam, meaning "dragon head rock," is a must-visit spot for Jeju Island tourists.

Rough weather makes for a dramatic shot of waves crashing against the rock.

"The best spot to see it from is about 50 meters away, rather than actually climbing the spot itself," says Kim.

Yongdam-1-dong Jeju-si Jeju Island

7. Cheonjiyeon Falls

Fairies' bathtub. ​The beautiful waterfall takes its name, which means "the pond of the gods," from a legend about seven heavenly attendants coming down to earth to bathe in the pond.

To honor the legend, a Seven Fairies Festival is held each May.

666-7 Cheonji-dong, Seogwipo-si, Jeju Island

6. Tokkiseom

Rabbit Island. ​When covered in white flowers in summer (this is the only place in Korea where crinum grows), this small island off Jeju is said to look like a white rabbit from a distance. Hence its name, which means "rabbit island."

Hadori, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si

5. Yeongam

Yeongam's latest endeavors include hosting Korea's first Grand Prix, with mixed results.

Although the county of Yeongam in the South Jeolla province has been in the local headlines in the past few years for its controversial hosting of Korea's first Grand Prix, the county is a pleasant, leisurely place to visit.

Local attractions include temples, ancient tombs and traditional estates.

Yeongam-gun Yeongam-eup South Jeolla Province 

4. Miryang Maneosa

Cultural immersion experience. ​

The thousands of floatstones around this ancient temple are supposedly fishes that were turned into stone. According to more legends, the five-meter-long rock on the temple site is the son of the dragon king who was also turned into stone.

Wishing on the rock is said to grant sons to women who could not conceive them before.

Maneosan, Miryang, South Gyeongsang Province

3. Seongsan Ilchungbong

Good morning.

Korea's most famous "sunrise peak" is a 5,000-year-old volcanic crater.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site with views like this every morning, it's a magnet for photographers from all over the country.

1 Seongsan-ri, Seongsan-eup, Seogwip, Jeju-si

2. Changdeokgung 

It's not just our favorite palace, it was the favorite of many a prince throughout the Joseon Dynasty. ​The second oldest of the five grand palaces in the country, Changdeokgung (not to be confused with Changgyeonggung) is home to a number of exceptionally beautiful spots, even for a palace. 

The most treasured of these is Biwon, the palace's back garden, a veritable lover's lane on any given evening. 

99 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul

​1. Halla Mountain

Hiking is allowed only during the day.​The highest mountain in Korea is also Jeju Island's most iconic landmark and home to approximately 4,000 different animal species.

The hiking trails are exquisitely developed, but the fickle weather can be daunting.

Haean-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju Island

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Insider Guide: Best of Dubai

Posted: 11 Aug 2013 11:50 AM PDT

More than a billionaire's playground in the desert -- Dubai's lavish business environment has created a tourist fantasyland
Burj Al Arab, Dubai

Dubai may be famed for its bigger, bolder, brighter design philosophy, but it's not all shiny buildings and alligator-skin Rolls-Royces.

Dubai's origins as a small fishing settlement centuries ago remains within the cracks.

When you're not withdrawing gold bars from the ATM or planning a stay at a giant Taj Mahal, the best of Dubai brings sand dunes to bash, souks to explore and seafood restaurants that'll put any limited expectations to rest.

Dubai has become a go-to career stop for tax-averse foreigners -- it's Arab at its core but capitalist at its edge.

That means glistening shopping malls, outrageous hotels and a lifestyle that's been acclaimed by Mercer as the best in the Middle East.

With a population of just more than 2 million (about 75% male), it's flashy and it's ostentatious.

That's why the best of Dubai is expected to draw 15 million tourists by 2015.

Print and go -- Our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of Dubai

Also on CNN: 10 reasons to love the Middle East

 

Hotels

Luxury 

Hotel-Al Qasr"The Palace" of Dubai. Literally.Al Qasr

Compared with the city's glitzy and unashamedly gaudy Burj Al Arab and Atlantis The Palm Hotel, Al Qasr, which translates as "The Palace," offers a distinctive Arabic flavor (Persian rugs and ornate oil lamps) without resembling Ali Baba's grotto.

Step inside the lobby and the scent of freshly cut rose petals -- which are scattered into a center pool -- hits you square on, while rooms look out onto Arabesque waterways and the Persian Gulf.

Al Qasr, intersection of Jumeirah Beach Road and Al Sufouh Road​; +971 4 366 8888; from $1,089 per night

 
 

Hotel-One&Only Royal MirageIn Dubai, one One&Only isn't enough. One&Only Royal Mirage

Despite the name, there are in fact two One&Only resorts in Dubai, both within a couple of miles of each other.

Celebrity favorite Royal Mirage is the more worthwhile of the two.

Guests have included Michael Jackson and David Beckham, who've slept within the Arabian architecture, immaculately cultivated palm tree gardens and probably lounged on the crisp white beachside cabanas.

It's also a great place for water sports -- expert South African instructors offer wakeboarding and wakesurfing lessons in the calm waters right off the beach.

One&Only Royal Mirage, opposite Dubai Media City; + 971 4 399 9999; from $469 per night

 
 

Hotel-KempinskiOne of your few chances in the Middle East to wake up with a penguin.Kempinski Mall of the Emirates

Not only is this five-star hotel a shopper's dream (it's attached to Mall of the Emirates), it looks out onto the most bizarre scene in the desert -- Ski Dubai, one of the largest manmade ski slopes on the planet.

The hotel has crafted its suites accordingly, with chalet-style decor, Molton Brown hues and fake fireplaces.

From the bedrooms and dining room, visitors can see the piste, tobogganing track, chair lifts and even a gaggle of penguins flown in to live in the 22,500-square-meter fridge. 

Kempinski Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Zayed Road; +971 4 409 5199; from $281 per night

 

Mid-range

Amwaj Rotana Jumeirah Beach 

Though in the moderate range, you still get five-star accommodation at the Amwaj Rotana.

For half the price of the luxury resorts you get a room on JBR Walk, the area where locals show off their souped-up Jeeps and million-dollar Ferraris.

Here you can also kick back with a shisha pipe in the dozens of al fresco restaurants along the beachfront.

Unlike most areas of the city, you can actually walk around.

Amwaj Rotana Jumeirah Beach, The Walk, Jumeirah Beach​; +971 4 428 2000; from $230 per night

Also on CNN: Dubai opens world's first Hello Kitty spa

 

Budget

Hotel-CitymaxLycra-clad singers await inside.Citymax Al Barsha

Cheaper than some and in a good location 20 minutes from all areas of Dubai, these digs are small, new and squeaky clean.

Each room comes with international TV channels, fridge, kettle with tea and coffee, Wi-Fi and cleaning services.

You have to buy your water from the vending machine down the hall. The bottles in the room aren't replenished after check-in.

Don't stay here for the decor; stay for the lively American-themed rock bar on the ground floor, where a blonde bombshell singer (often in white Lycra) belts out everything from Nirvana to Cranberries covers.

Citymax, Al Barsha; +971 4 428 2000; from $68 per night

 

Dining

Dubai's preeminent meatery.​Fire & Ice

A hypertrendy loft space complete with NYC-style brickwork, Fire & Ice is set in one of Dubai's most unusual architectural feats -- Raffles Dubai, a 19-story pyramid tipped with gold that's worth the journey alone.

This carnivore's Eden is as elaborate inside -- the meat is singed in pans at sub-zero temperatures. Prime cuts are served alongside beautifully presented minimal veg and flavored foam. 

Beef eaters can challenge themselves to identify each of the imported slabs of meat on the sampler plate, which comes with mini-cuts of Irish Angus, Aussie Angus and wagyu beef.

Fire & Ice, Raffles Dubai, Sheikh Rashid Road​; +971 4 324 8888; expensive

 

Dining-LevantinePrettiest tables outside of Vegas.Levantine

This restaurant may not offer the best Lebanese cuisine out there, but it does bring eclectic fantasy decor at Atlantis The Palm.

On the outside you'll find salmon-colored walls and a casino-style spade shape in the center of the building.

On the inside it's psychedelic, swirly patterned carpets, under-the-sea motifs on the walls and a ceiling-high blown-glass sculpture coming out of a shell-shaped fountain.

At Levantine you can sit outside on the terrace and take it all in, while chomping on a selection of hot and cold mezze, grilled meats and Arabic breads. 

Levantine, Atlantis, The Palm, Palm Jumeirah; +971 4 426 2626; expensive

 

Poolside dining is the way to go when it's shwarm outside.​Cabana

Although the food selection here won't make your jaw drop -- expect shwarmas (chicken wrapped in bread with garlic paste), grilled prawns and vegetables -- the setting will.

This sleek, outdoor restaurant does exactly what it says on the tin: serves you while you lounge around on poolside seats.

There also happens to be a staggering view of the world's tallest building.

Cabana, The Address Dubai Mall, Downtown Dubai; +971 4 438 8999; expensive

 

Aprons & Hammers

Set on a docked boat, guests at this novelty eatery get an apron and a variety of utensils, including lobster forks, claw crackers, hammers and tweezers with which to dismantle shellfish.

There are a variety of buckets filled with cooked crabs, claws and legs, or lobster and shrimp.

Aprons & Hammers, Dubai International Marina Club, Mina Seyahi Beach Resort; +971 4 454 7097; moderate

 

Dining-BussolaThe Caribbean comes to Dubai. Bussola

The resort-like palm tree, swimming pool and beach backdrop make you feel like you're holidaying in the Bahamas rather than the desert.

The menu includes simple Mediterranean dishes such as imported cold cuts, pomodorino salad with sun-dried tomatoes and chunks of orange and parmesan, salami-slathered antipasto and lots of pizza cooked in a stone oven.

Bussola, Westin Dubai, Mina Seyahi Beach; +971 4 511 7136; moderate

 

Dining-Ravi'sDon't judge the dishes by the facade.Ravi

In spite of the gritty canteen-style decor and plastic dishes, Ravi's is busy every night of the week.

You'll find incredibly tasty Punjabi curries, such as spicy chicken jalfrezi, full of Indian vegetables. The haleem is a slow-roasted porridge-style dish with lentils and lamb.

Freshly cooked rotis are served with a variety of tangy dips.

Ravi, Satwa Road, near Rydges Plaza; +971 4 331 5353; budget

 

Dining-Bu QtairIt gets busier when it's open. Bu Qtair

In the fishing village to the right of Umm Sequim beach you'll find plastic tables and chairs scattered around a car park, and a white Portacabin serving fish, fish and fish.

At the counter, a selection of curry-slathered morsels is stacked high in a metal tray.

Chefs fry snapper or hammour in front of you and serve it with a bowl of curry sauce, home-cooked paratha, rice and salad. 

Bu Qtair, located to the right of Umm Suqeim open beach along Road 4d; budget

 

Dining-SmilinkDubai's cheekiest little Thai restaurant.Smiling BKK

It's not easy to find this hipster Thai restaurant, which is hidden in a back street in the Jumeriah district. Look for the neon-mustached Mona Lisa sign on the outside.

Inside is a creative medley of kitsch memorabilia -- walls covered higgledy-piggledy with picture frames and a pin board filled with Polaroid snaps.

In the corners there are tongue-in-cheek pictures of naked Thai girls with their bits covered by humorous phrases.

Tables are adorned with place mats made of recycled magazine pages.

Typical Thai dishes come with fun names such as "Masters Of The Universe."

Smiling BKK, near Al Wasl Plaza, Al Wasl Road, behind the Emarat garage; +971 4 331 5353; budget

Also on CNN: World's tallest hotel reaches for Dubai

 

 

Nightlife

Nightlife-Jetty LoungePurple -- the international color of expensive.Jetty Lounge

This beach bar set on The One&Only Royal Mirage's private beach exudes cool.

It attracts a young, professional crowd on weekends, who lounge around in their designer threads on the crisp white couches overlooking the sea and yachts, while listening to down-tempo beats and sipping expensive cocktails.

Jetty Lounge, The One&Only Royal Mirage; Al Sufouh Road; +971 4 399 9999; moderate

 
 
 

Nightlife-At.mosphereBase jumpers' bar of choice.At.mosphere

If you're looking to show off, get the elevator to the 122nd floor of the Burj Khalifa and take a seat at At.mosphere's bar.

Though this place is predominantly a restaurant, it stocks rare whiskies and vintage wines. You can sip on them while enjoying a 360-degree view of the city while sitting 1,450 feet (442 meters) above ground level.

At.mosphere, Burj Khalifa, 1 Emaar Blvd.; +971 4 888 8888; expensive

 
 

Nightlife-NasimiEven the moon hangs out at Nasimi.Nasimi

Nasimi specializes in beach beanbags and novel cocktails -- made from vodka, midori, fresh melon, lemon and sugar, the Nasimi Signature is worth a try.

A roster of one-off events at this popular spot make it worth checking in on frequently. Chicane, Zero 7, 2manyDJs, Roger Sanchez and Pete Murray have all appeared for the series of daylong "Sandance" parties. 

Nasimi, Atlantis, The Palm, Palm Jumeirah; +971 4 426 2626; moderate

 
 

Nightlife-360 barSiren call to drinkers. Mind the rocks.360° Bar

Set on the end of its own pier, hovering on Gulf waters, 360° is a hotspot for sundowners who love the views of the iconic sail-shaped Burj Al Arab hotel, yachts pulling into the marina and the city skyline.

It's got an Ibiza vibe, as the DJs play down-tempo soundtracks to the panoramic sunset cinema, then crank up the tempo at night for a club-vibe that inspires ravers to keep their sunglasses on.

360° Bar​, Jumeirah Beach Hotel; +971 4 406 8769; moderate

 
 

Nightlife-Irish VillageThe craic comes to Dubai.Irish Village

One for homesick Europeans, the Irish Village pub is decorated to look like a friendly village shop, tobacconist and pub, all kitted out with wooden fixtures imported from Ireland.

It has a pub garden, Guinness, roast dinners and Irish stew. 

Irish Village, Al Garhoud, next to Dubai Tennis Stadium; +971 4 282 4750; budget

 
 

Nightlife-BarastiSouthern hemisphere hangout of choice.Barasti

Here you'll find hundreds of expats of the Aussie, Kiwi and South African variety, who come to relax with a shisha on the sand, dance to the cheesy bar band on the wooden decking against the night sky.

Drinks are reasonably priced and it's always packed, but call ahead in case of special events on weekends.

Promoters often bring in international DJs or artists such as N-Trance, The Streets and Sister Sledge.

Barasti, Al Sufouh Road, Jumeirah Beach; +971 4 399 3333; budget

Also on CNN: Dubai plans five-star replica of Taj Mahal

 

 

Shopping

Shopping-The Dubai MallWhere shopping gets serious.Dubai Mall 

This is the world's largest mall, with 1,200 shops and a retail floor area of more than half a million square meters.

It's also filled with more luxury designer brands than you can shake a credit card at -- Gucci, Dior, Prada, Burberry and so on.

When it comes to outrageous, Gold Souk takes the gong. The most amazing thing about this place is the fact that there's seemingly no one guarding the large amount of precious metal behind its regular glass shop windows.

Dubai Mall, Financial Centre Road, Downtown Dubai; +971 4 362 7500; expensive

 

Souk and you shall find.​Madinat Souk

Attached to the adjacent Jumeirah Beach Hotel, this labyrinth of high-end market stalls selling everything from expensive shisha pipes to antique furniture and jewelry is Dubai's take on a Middle Eastern souk.

There's no hustle and bustle, no dirty corridors or fake goods.

Instead shoppers can browse in perfumed, air-conditioned corridors and rest in between stress-free shopping at one of the many bars or restaurants in the complex.

Unsurprisingly, locals and expats don't shop here, although it has become a social hangout, and visitors can pick up a well-made gift at an inflated price if they're so inclined.

Madinat Souk, Madinat, Jumeirah; +971 4 348 4444; expensive

 

Go nuts on designer fashions -- just don't flash them around too much on your walk out.​BurJuman Centre

Ironically, this high-end mall is set in a poorer area of Dubai, yet it houses Cartier, Bvlgari, Versace and Louis Vuitton outlets as well as mid-range brands Guess and DNKY.

Despite the staple luxury goods, this mall has a different feel than the other mega indoor complexes, with outdoor gardens to explore in between earth-shattering purchases, a rarity in Dubai.

BurJuman Centre, Khalid Bin Al Waleed St.; +971 4 352 0222, expensive

 

Ibn Battuta Mall

Well worth a visit, this mall not only offers a selection of familiar stores, including Top Shop, Next, H&M and Accessorize, it also sports off-the-wall decor inspired by the travels of 14th-century Moroccan explorer Ibn Battuta.

Here you'll find a giant model of a ship and an elephant, plus displays telling the story of Battuta's travels. The "Persia" section of the mall has an incredible hand-painted dome; the "Egypt" section has walls covered in hieroglyphics.

Ibn Battuta Mall, off Shiekh Zayed Road toward Abu Dhabi; +971 4 362 1900; moderate

 

Shopping-Bur DubaiA break from the air-conditioned malls.Bur Dubai Souk 

Parallel to the Creek in Bur Dubai, the souks in this area sell pashminas, dish dashes, spices and gifts.

It's a touristy area, but a good place to try your haggling skills with friendly shop vendors. The end of the souk offers a fascinating glimpse into the local community.

Here you'll find the Shri Nathje Jayate Temple and a Hindu lane, where hawkers sell flower garlands, Indian sweets and incense. Holographic Shiva pictures and packets of bidis go for a couple of dollars.

Bur Dubai Souk, behind the Grand Mosque; off of Abi Talib Street; budget

Also on CNN: The Hulk comes to Dubai

 

 

Activities

Activities- SkydivingAfter all that luxury, here's how to come down to Earth.Skydiving

If you feel the need to launch yourself out of a plane over the Palm Jumeirah and hurtle toward the ground from 12,000 feet (3,660 meters), Skydive Dubai would love to have you.

It's one of the busiest jump zones in the world, with bird's-eye views of Dubai's skyscrapers, the Gulf coastline and desert in the distance.

You can even train for a paragliding license here on one of the Skydive Dubai courses. When you've completed it you'll be qualified to jump solo anywhere in the world. 

If you'd rather watch, the annual Dubai International Parachuting Championships is held during winter. 

Skydive Dubai, at the base of the Palm Jumeirah, between the Dubai Marina and JBR; +971 50 153 3222; first-time jumps are $480

 

Activities-WaterparksSlip-slidin' away.Waterparks

At Wild Wadi Waterpark you can surf the 10-foot (three-meter) flow-rider (artificial wave machine), zip down the largest freefall water slide outside of the United States or fall though a plug hole.

Or you can try Aquaventure Waterpark where you can drift around on the lazy river or experience the 90-foot (27.5-meter) near-vertical drop, called the Leap of Faith, which propels your body through a see-through tube inside a shark tank.

Wild Wadi, in Umm Sequim, next to Jumeirah Beach Hotel; +971 4 348 4444; $55 entry

Aquaventure, at Atlantis, The Palm; +971 4 426 2626; $55 entry

 

Activities-Desert Safari by 4x4Finally, someone uses a 4x4 for what it was designed for.Desert Safari by four-wheel drive

Twice daily, convoys of Jeeps hurtle around an area called Big Red in the desert close to Dubai.

Dozens of companies take cars of up to six people over the distinctive orange-tinted dunes. Tell your driver the kind of adventure you're looking to have, whether it be dune bashing or a relaxing drive, and he'll oblige.

Afterward, guests are taken you to a mock Bedouin camp for a feed, Arabic dancing, henna drawing and camel riding.

North Tours; pick-ups available from all locations in Dubai; +971 4 357 2200; $45 for a half-day tour, including a meal

 

Water taxiThe Venice of the Gulf?Water taxi

The best time to ride a traditional Abra water taxi is at sunset.

Cross the river in Bur Dubai for photo ops of the protruding domed mosques against the red skyline.

Local boat drivers also offer longer scenic tours for tourists up the river and out to sea. Dinner cruises are also available.

The Creek, Bur Dubai, near Dubai Museum and Bastakiya; daily from 8 a.m-10 p.m; $1 for an Abra water taxi or $30 for a longer tour

Most outrageous business deductions ever filed

Posted: 11 Aug 2013 11:02 AM PDT

Thought your $500 room service tab was a red flag? Check out these whopper deductions execs have tried to sneak past accounting

Travel and entertainment expenses are as beloved as they are behated.

You get a bunch of free stuff … but it's usually because you've been sent to some dismal rustopolis that ends in "burg" or "dong."

You eat, drink and travel more expensively than you might normally … but you'd rather just have the money instead.

And if you're a salesman, it's practically your job to spend hundreds, if not thousands, a month on prospective clients, making expenses-paid nights out a soul-forfeiting routine.

So taking liberties with an expense report is not only understandable, it's practically a duty. After all, you've got to spend money to make money.

We canvassed business travelers and professionals who've done just that; some out of necessity, some out of the spirit of innovation.

Following are some of the most extravagant, superfluous, indefensible expenses ever filed with an accounting department.

Editor's note: The accountants, auditors and business travelers quoted below shared their stories only on condition of anonymity.

Free vacation

"Will call you back in a few minutes, boss. I'm in the middle of some tense negotiations right now." Total cost: $150,000

Explanation: Global group tour of competing companies to determine best practices.

Real explanation: In 2007, two consultants hatched a plan to show their clients -- a board of eight Fortune 100 executives -- the world on the company dime.

Selling to their superiors a story about competitive research, they instead turned the trip into a company-funded vacation by simply changing all of the destinations on their itinerary from places like Guangdong and Houston to Vegas and Hawaii -- with the change penalties expensed, too, naturally.

When the companies they were supposed to visit called to inquire why they hadn't met as scheduled -- and the expenses came in at three times what was estimated -- the party was over and all involved were fired.

More on CNN: China to overtake U.S. as world's top business travel destination

 

College tuition

Total costs: Several hundred thousand dollars

Explanation: Charitable giving.

Real explanation: When you have a customer whose boss's kid is having trouble getting into the college of his choice, that's a business opportunity.

Several years ago, one such scion of a Chinese CEO unsuccessfully sought admission to a top-25 university in the northeastern United States.

A software sales rep looking to drum up business in China arranged for the admission of the CEO's son by donating on behalf of his company to the university, reaching the donor level necessary to set up a scholarship ... and to decide whose education that scholarship should fund.

Conveniently, the CEO's son was the perfect candidate.

 

Backup mattress 

Doesn't matter if seeing your favorite team lose the Super Bowl drove you to the drink. Few companies will pay for post-binge sleepy time accidents. Total costs: $500

Explanation: A room service-related mishap resulted in irreversible mattress damage.

Real explanation: During the NFL's Super Bowl week in 2012, a publishing executive returned to his Indianapolis hotel room after entertaining a column of clients at a high-profile party thrown by his publication.

The broadcast of the game on NBC broke the record for the most-watched program in American television history

Having consumed an excessive amount of alcohol, the exec woke up the following morning to the realization that he had completely lost control of his bowels during the night, rendering the mattress unsalvageable.

After having paid to replace it among his other room incidentals, he had his assistant submit the expense to his accounting department under the line item "soiled mattress." His attempts at reimbursement were denied.

More on CNN: Business traveler's guide to surviving a Korean drinking session

 

Phantom food

Total costs: $10,000

Explanation: Routine meals at fine dining establishments.

Real explanation: Today's lean economy has hit those at the lower end of the hierarchy hardest, making per diems a secondary revenue stream.

So it's not uncommon to see younger sales guys or consultants of modest compensation eating at Subway and other similarly cheap supping troughs.

But when it comes time to submit an expense report, these five-dollar gullet stuffings become $50 dinners at some of the finest restaurants in town. These young professionals are dumpster diving, digging through trash cans for receipts far in excess of the expenses they incur.

In one year, a salesman turned in approximately US$10,000 worth of meal receipts on just US$3,000 of actual expenses, pocketing the difference.

 

Free Xbox

"The hip-hop star stole the company X-Box." Now that's an excuse to file away for future use. Total costs: $400

Explanation: Millionaire musicians are too cheap to buy their own video game consoles.

Real explanation: An event producer booked a 10-times-plus platinum hip-hop artist to perform a set at a party in Vegas he was organizing in 2009.

Included on the rapper's hospitality rider of required items was an Xbox video game system for use backstage before and/or after the show.

Ordinarily this kind of item would be rented, but the producer submitted a request for purchase. When accounting questioned him on why he wasn't renting, he explained that performers usually end up taking home such items and giving them to their friends.

Accounting relented and, sure enough, the rapper walked off with the X-Box.

 

Replacement wardrobe 

Total costs: $6,000

Explanation: Needed a new wardrobe after leaving luggage in flight attendant's hotel room.

Real explanation: That's really it. On a flight from New York to Zurich In 2007, a director for a leading investment bank had a number of cocktails during the eight-hour ride and, having hit it off with one of the flight attendants, ended up going straight back to her hotel room.

The next morning, upon arrival at his own hotel, he realized that he left his suitcase at her's.

His boss loved the story so much that he signed off on a pricey new set of clothes. The banking director and flight attendant are still Facebook friends.

First published November 2012, updated August 2013

Friday, August 9, 2013

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10 easy ways to experience Navajo America

Posted: 09 Aug 2013 03:00 AM PDT

Interacting with Native American communities and cultures is easier than many travelers realize

The Grand Canyon. Unique art galleries and boutiques. Stunning golf courses.

For travelers, the American Southwest is filled with innumerable attractions.

Though it permeates almost every aspect of the regional culture, however, the Native American communities of the Southwest can often seem distant and inaccessible to visitors.

In fact, interacting with native communities and cultures is easier than many travelers realize.

The Navajo Nation -- a 25,000-square-mile sovereign state in the high desert of Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah -- is a good place to start.

The Navajo occupy the largest tribal reservation in the country; the area is home to more than 100,000 Navajo people.

Here are 10 ways to experience their distinct culture.

1. Ride through Monument Valley

monument valleyNavajo skyscrapers.

A 91,000-acre tribal park on the Arizona-Utah border, the towering red rock pinnacles and bright orange mesas of Monument Valley -- believed in Navajo mythology to be the carcasses of defeated monsters, buried in the sand -- offer the most iconic images of the Southwest.

Road routes are easy and take in the big viewpoints, but a backcountry tour with a local guide shows you the valley through Native American eyes.

Sacred Monument Tours and Black's Tours are Navajo-owned and operated outfits that will take you through the valley in a Jeep or on horseback and include Navajo interpretive talks and storytelling.

Goulding's Trading Post & Lodge (+1 435 727 3231) in Monument Valley provides accommodation and excellent Navajo-run hiking and Jeep tours.

2. Watch wild mustangs get broken in

mustang training"Whispering" doesn't work so well out here.

Mustangs are strong and free-spirited, and some 30,000 of them run wild through Navajo land.

At La Tinaja Restaurant and Trading Post (on Highway 53 in Ramah, New Mexico; +1 505 783 4349) -- a Navajo restaurant, community center and one-time drinking haunt of Billy the Kid -- it's possible to watch Native horse breakers tame and train wild mustangs using traditional methods.

Phone ahead to find out about times.

3. See ancient petroglyphs in Canyon de Chelly

canyon de chellyDigital photo ops at the top, ancient art below.

Canyon de Chelly is a dramatic 26-mile gorge near Chinle, Arizona.

It's sacred to the Navajo and filled with ancient petroglyphs of snakes, antelope and the stark white handprints of medicine men.

Deep in the canyon, ruined settlements of the Anasazi -- predecessors of the Navajo -- can be found, built high into cracks in the sheer cliffs like vertiginous sandcastles of mud and stone.

The views from the top are spectacular but to appreciate the history of the canyon you need to explore inside -- accessible only with a local guide.

Sacred Canyon Lodge (+1 928 674 5841) is a Navajo-owned and operated hotel at the entrance to Canyon de Chelly. Hiking, Jeep and horseback tours can be arranged on request.

4. Sleep in a Navajo hogan

navajo hoganA modern version of the traditional Navajo hogan.

Made of interlocking logs held together with compacted mud and earth, hogans, the traditional home of the Navajo, are still used by many families.

They also play an important part in Native spiritual and ceremonial life.

Inside, the design is a reflection of the living world: pillars to represent the four cardinal directions, a circular spiral roof for the sky and a door facing east to welcome the rising sun.

Spending the night in one is a treat: they're not fancy, but they're comfortable and -- miles from any large urban area -- provide a great night of sleep.

Discover Navajo, a Navajo Nation culture and tourism organization based in Window Rock, Arizona, has information on overnight hogan stays on the reservation.

5. Visit with a medicine man

navajo medicine manOlden ways.

By looking through a crystal at a pile of hot coals spread out on the compacted earth floor of a hogan, Navajo medicine men are believed to be able to divine aspects of a patient's life and help them using prayer, chanting and blessing with sacred feathers and arrowheads.

Still employed in contemporary Navajo society to heal both physical and mental ailments, traditional ceremonies are powerful expressions of the culture.

Many medicine men won't treat non-Navajos, but a few will. Ask around and you may get lucky.

6. Sleep under the stars

navajo campingNo point searching for a Wi-Fi hot spot here.

For the ultimate Southwest fantasy, nothing beats riding out on horseback to camp in the backcountry, where you can roast corn on an open fire and listen to traditional Native American stories.

But the real show begins when the stars come out -- stargazers lay on blankets and sleeping bags by the embers of a fire while the shining arms of the Milky Way swirl overhead.

Larry Holiday (+1 928 679 5161; lyholiday@yahoo.com) is an excellent Navajo guide who provides horseback and camping tours in and around Monument Valley.

7. Learn about Navajo rugs

Navajo indian weavingGood for the floor, or the wall.

Navajo rug weaving is one of the most intricate and beautiful of all the Native arts in the Southwest.  

Techniques are a closely guarded secret, passed from mother to daughter.

The effort involved in making rugs is intense: a single three-to-five-foot rug can take more then 2,000 hours, or eight months, to produce.

Designs follow traditional geometrical patterns that are striking and unique.

Navajo rugs can be bought at trading posts throughout the reservation.

Cameron Trading Post (located in Cameron, Arizona, 54 miles north of Flagstaff, on Highway 89; +1 877 608 3491) has a good selection from $300-95,000.

8. Eat fry bread

navajo food truckYou can't miss these in the Southwest.

The "three sisters" of Navajo farming -- corn, beans, squash -- may be the backbone of Native cooking, but its heart is, without a doubt, fry bread.

Made by drenching homemade dough on a frying-pan, the recipe may be simple, but achieving perfection is a difficult-to-perfect art.

Fry bread is often covered in salt and ladled with chili beans to make a Navajo taco or, for the purist, dipped in fresh mutton stew and sweet blue corn mush.

Fry bread can be bought throughout the reservation, at formal restaurants and simple roadside stands.

La Tinaja Restaurant and Trading Post (on Highway 53 in Ramah, New Mexico; +1 505 783 4349) makes excellent Navajo tacos.

9. Watch the sunset at an ancient cliff village

Navajo indian cave Stay for sunset for an even better picture.

Built into an immense alcove in Betatakin Canyon, 60 miles east of Tuba City, Arizona, a beautifully preserved 13th-century Puebloan cliff village is the centerpiece of Navajo National Monument.

At dusk, the walls glow bright peach and light up a surrounding forest of pinion pines, yucca plants and giant Douglas firs.

Short trails to scenic viewpoints include interpretive signage that offers insight into how ancient Puebloan people used everything the desert provided to thrive despite arid conditions.

The Navajo Park Service (+1 928 672 2700) leads ranger-guided hikes and other activities.

10. Watch Native artists at work

Navajo indian craftsAll the best travel gifts are small, light and have a story.

A new self-drive trail on the Hopi reservation, near Tuba City, Arizona, is designed to connect tourists directly with workshops and galleries of 26 renowned Hopi artists.

(Though they share the region, Hopi are a separate tribe from the Navajo, and consider themselves North America's oldest human inhabitants.)

A unique opportunity to find out how basket weavers, potters, wood carvers and silversmiths work, visitors can explore traditional villages and buy authentic Native American products.

Moenkopi Legacy Inn & Suites (+1 928 283 4500) is the only Hopi-owned and run hotel on the Hopi reservation, and a great base for the Hopi Arts Trail.

General information on Navajo Nation and related sites can be found at the Discover Navajo website.

Ha? Virgin launches live comedy, music on flights

Posted: 09 Aug 2013 12:00 AM PDT

Killing boredom, or your will to live? In-aisle comedy hits UK air routes

It must be fun to be on Sir Richard Branson's creative team.

They throw ideas out there, and most of the time, it seems, Branson's game.

Take Virgin's latest plan to launch in-flight live music and improv comedy.

Little Red, Virgin Atlantic's domestic carrier for the United Kingdom, plans to have musicians and comedians take to the aisles at 30,000 feet.

The new London-based airline, which launched on March 31 this year, will be offering live shows on flights to Edinburgh or Manchester.

Called Little Red LIVE, the lineup will feature comedy in August and acoustic music in September.

The talent will include performers from the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, the world's largest arts festival, which runs through August.

richard bransonAnything's better than Branson's last attempt at live entertainment. "Acts will be announced soon through Virgin Atlantic's Facebook and Twitter channels, but flight details will remain a secret -- making this a truly one-of-a-kind experience," announced the airline in a statement on Wednesday.

We don't want to appear too cynical -- anything that might make the chore of air travel better is worth trying -- but in-aisle comedians?

For those of us who like to switch off, tune out and watch a movie or read a book on board, this could prove one laugh too far.

Thankfully, the flights in question are 90 minutes or less.

Would you like live entertainment on your flight? Tell us in the comments section.

More on CNN: 12 in-flight innovations that will make your trip better

Thursday, August 8, 2013

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Bangkok's coffee scene gets a much-needed shot of energy

Posted: 07 Aug 2013 03:00 PM PDT

Instant 3-in-1 coffee packets be damned -- this city is finally clueing into the necessity of a fine roast

Expats and young Thais clad in retro dresses, skinny trousers or beards recline outside on a cushioned bench along a clapboard wall.

Past a metal and glass door, in a tiny, brick-lined room, a wooden communal table is also packed with the young and scruffily beautiful.

People heading to the bathroom have to squeeze past a man with large headphones spinning vinyl on a turntable.

It's not a hipster party. It's 4 p.m. on a Saturday, and the location is Casa Lapin X49, one of the most popular new coffee shops in Bangkok.

 

It's not a hipster party. It's Casa Lapin, one of the most popular cafes in Bangkok. A significant amount of Thailand's coffee "brewing" uses 3-in-1 instant packets from 7-Eleven or is done at street carts that sell milk-thickened concoctions for less than a dollar.

In Bangkok and other major cities, however, the upper crust of coffee shops brew international brands such as Illy or Lavazza and attract legions of Instagrammers with cutesy/industrial-chic/grungy/English tea-room decor.

​Despite its overwhelming hipster appeal, there's more to Casa Lapin X49.

Co-owned by architect-turned-professional-coffee-aficionado, Suraphan "Tonk" Tanta, Casa Lapin is an important outpost in Bangkok's growing specialty coffee culture.

In addition to making excellent espresso drinks, it buys single-origin beans from Thai and international roasters, hand grinds them and prepares them to order with a drip cone or French press.

More on CNN: Bangkok's 9 best new bars

"Some people complain that (our coffee) is sour or has too much acidity," Tonk admits. "Thai people drink dark, earthy, traditional coffee. But some people ask questions, and my neighbor is now coming here to be a part-time barista, because she wants to know more."

There's evidence around town that specialty coffee isn't just a passing youth trend.

Ceresia is one of a handful of boutique roasters in Bangkok. ​Ceresia opened just more than a month ago opposite an aging Japanese supermarket in Phrom Phong. The clientele is Westerners, Japanese expats and older Thai professionals stopping for a quick cup and a chat on their way to work.

Owned by Venezuelan sisters Marian and Lucia Aguilar and Lucia's husband Bret Asavaroengchai, Ceresia is also a boutique roaster; its freshly roasted beans are on display in the store.

The shop offers a brief informational pamphlet on the coffee farms they buy from, and a blackboard on the wall lists dates of the latest roasts.

"People really love that we offer coffees from different countries," Lucia says. "They come and say, 'I'd like to try this one today.'"

Both establishments understand the relative newness of specialty coffee in Bangkok and the importance of communicating with the customers.

Casa Lapin has recently opened a second, larger shop in the Ari neighborhood, and Tonk hopes the space will mean more interaction.

"We have an L-shaped bar, with an espresso bar on one side and a slow bar [for drip and French press] on the other side," he says. "People can come to buy and talk about coffee. People can go sit with the barista."

Ceresia serves some coffee styles that don't appear on most beverage menus in the city, such as café au lait, a filter shot and piccolo. Staffers help undecided customers make choices in line with their tastes.

"We have to talk a little bit more," says Marian, "but we try to get at what the customer really likes."

More on CNN: Phuket's 7 coolest coffee shops

Getting Thailand's coffee growers onboard 

It remains to be seen what Thailand's emerging specialty coffee market means for local coffee production. Thailand harvests about 4,000 tons of coffee per year through government projects and private companies.

 

A member of the Lisu hill tribe picks Thai arabica coffee beans at the Thai High coffee farm in Phrao, northern Thailand. Still, most of this is non-specialty coffee sold to national restaurant chains and export demand isn't high.

A nearly 100% import tariff on foreign coffee beans has protected Thai production so far. But with ASEAN economic integration set to go into effect in 2015, Thai coffee will be on dangerously equal footing with Laotian, Vietnamese and Cambodian competition.

To stand a chance, Thailand will be forced to grow and process better coffee.

​Ritthee Bunnag of Thailand's Royal Projects Foundation believes Thai coffee can be produced to specialty, single-origin standards.

But convincing farmers to do so is difficult.

"At the moment, the farmers can sell easily, so they're not concentrating on quality," Bunnag explains.

"If [farmers] do exactly what we tell them to do, the quality is going to be higher. Two Colombian advisors came a while ago to look at the quality. They said we could compete with [Colombia]."

The Royal Projects currently sells a small amount of its 200-300 ton annual yield to specialty roasters.

Owner of Thai High Ventures, American Ray Buerger isn't afraid to get his hands dirty at the Thai High coffee farm. ​Private enterprises like American expat Ray Buerger's Thai High Ventures work directly with pockets of coffee growers to produce high-quality beans fit for the specialty market, mostly in Singapore and Thailand.

Last year, they produced and sold 20 tons of green beans.

"Two years ago, I didn't know who to sell to," Buerger says. "This year, our market expanded into Thai people, because they're finding our products exceptional."

Varatt Vichit-Vadakan, who runs Roots Coffee Roasters in Bangkok and is a focal point of the roasting and brewing community, believes Thai High Ventures is bringing new flavors, ideas and techniques to coffee production in Thailand.

"Ray has been processing only farms that grow [different Arabica varietals] like caturra and catuai, which has much better innate flavor and complexity," Varatt says. "Ray also uses some of the world's best processing machines to produce super clean coffee for us."

Ceresia and Casa Lapin also currently sell or plan to sell Thai coffee, though the majority of their beans come from Indonesia, South and Central America and Africa.

How this partnership develops in the near future will depend on the coffee farmers of northern Thailand, but also on the demand from expats and hipsters in the cities.

Specialty coffee in Bangkok     

Casa Lapin, Thonglor Art Village, Thonglor Soi 17-19

Casa Lapin x49, Sukhumvit Soi 49; +66 81 261 2040

Ceresia Coffee Roasters, 593/29-41 Sukhumvit road, soi 33/1

Roots Bangkok, Ekamai Terrace #2-4, between sois 15-17; +66 89 697 5697

 

More on CNN: Would you pay $50 for a cup of elephant dung coffee?